Celebrity dressmaker Sushama Pagare sheds light on what it's like to doll them up

Sushama Pagare, a Mumbai-based designer whose creations have been sported by Jennifer Lopez and a host of Hollywood hotties. She has quietly been making international inroads in the last two decades.
Sushama Pagare
Sushama Pagare

What is common to Billy Porter, Randi Rahm, Naomi Campbell, Kylie Jenner, Demi Lovato, Paris Hilton and Jennifer Lopez?

Well, they have all sported creations by ace fashion designer Sushama Pagare. While JLo wore her clothes for her Dubai Tour 2018, Jenner showed them off for Quay Australia and Porter shone in them at the Met Gala last year.

As to why so many performers prefer her garments, Pagare replies, “Because these garments are usually for performances at their world tour concerts, they need to have the strength and durability and the technical details have to be of a very high standard. Which is what my garments provide.”

Always fascinated by design, Pagare says, “I grew up in Kala Ghoda, Great Western Building, where Tarun Tahiliani’s office was above my house and the showroom was below, so I always saw grand garments pass by. I used to be fascinated by them and never missed a chance to touch the beadings and feel the fabrics. I fell in love with fashion.”

After graduation, she joined tailoring classes at Colaba where she learnt from a Parsi lady, and then started making clothes for her family and friends.

“Soon I started selling at the Oak Tree, Colaba.

"But then, experience and exploitation always go hand in hand and I have learnt my lessons the hard way.  One fashion house asked me to design a few clothes and took my file and released my designs into the market without my knowledge.”

After this, Pagare began to work part-time for export houses doing odd jobs and freelancing.

The first big break came some 18 years ago, when she was selected by The Rotary Club to represent India for upcoming designers in Paris.

“It was a life-changing experience for me and the 60-day exchange programme gave me an experience which only a few people can be blessed with. A lot of creative people were in the running, but only five of us were selected after three rounds of interviews and 40 days of training.”

Once back, she worked with several commercial labels such as Badgley Mischka, Philippe and Adam Selam and The Blonds, a brand co-founded by Philip Blond and David Blond.

Fashion for her is something that is memorable and timeless.

“Whether it is your grandmother’s old zardozi sari or a special spangled suit worn by Jennifer Lopez, each piece should be eternal and leave an impression on the person who wore it and the person who sees it.”

Pagare, who believes that clothes are all about bringing out one’s personality, is hugely inspired by nature.

“For me, a NatGeo show has thousand inspirations to offer, especially when you see all rare insects or marine species. They have such lovely colour combinations to offer and it is so amazing. Alexander McQueen’s concepts are something I can relate to, and in India, I love Manish Arora’s work—he inspires me to believe that I must create it, however crazy it might seem.” 

Looking ahead, she says, “I am always doing research on new materials and concepts and will keep visiting different countries and work with different designers. I will continue to travel and I also want to enter the Indian fashion industry and dress celebrities with some very unusual garments. I want for my work to leave a fossil print in people’s minds,” she signs off.

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