In the fading evening light, distinctive metallic clacks tattoo the air, interrupted by excited shouts and disappointed groans. Groups of men and young boys are playing petanque or boules, a French bowling game with cricket ball-sized metal balls. Anywhere else in Asia, it would be incongruous, but in Luang Prabang, it is just another reminder of Laos's French colonial times. Luang Prabang sits at the edge of a peninsula where the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers meet. It is Laos’ cultural and spiritual capital. The country has centuries-old Siamese legacy. It was part of the kingdom of Lan Xang.
Then came French and Japanese occupation until Luang Prabang gained independence in 1949. Those influences are all there: ancient Buddhist temples, the distinctive French feel (check out the vintage Citroën and Mercedes cars parked outside Three Nagas Hotel), all of which is infused with local elements whose confluence has earned the city a UNESCO World Heritage Site tag.
Though Luang Prabang is dotted with nearly three dozen Buddhist temples, it is the awe-inspiring 16th century Wat Xieng Thong which houses a small statue of the Buddha—considered the religious symbol of Luang Prabang—which is the most spectacular. Known as the ‘monastery of the golden city’ and once the gateway to the town for arrivals to Mekong, this sprawling complex is scattered with nearly two dozen structures and boasts richly painted interiors, intricate mosaics and gilded details that dazzle. The three-roofed Wat Xieng Thong is famous for the luminous Tree of Life mosaic and the massive funeral chariot of King Sisavang Vong.
When in Laos, you have to get a crash course in rice farming. Just outside Luang Prabang, the Living Land Farm showcases how sticky rice is cultivated. Visitors are encouraged to wade into the slushy rice fields for some hands-on experience in harvesting, threshing, collecting and cooking rice. There are cooking classes for khaipen made from Mekong riverweed. Daring, are you? Take a tuk-tuk to the Artisans Cafe for a sip of silkworm poo tea. Food conservatives will be horrified at Backstreet Academy’s Fear Factor Food Tour selling chicken feet, goat’s blood, duck foetus and pig’s intestines—all offered by street vendors.
Culture vultures and crafts aficionados could take a tour of the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre for a tryst with Laos’s past. Here ethnically diverse and elaborately displayed artefacts such as bamboo baskets, garments and embroidery, musical instruments, art and other craft are on display. After a footsore day of sight seeing, go dip your feet in the sparkling, three-level terraced Kuang Si waterfalls after grabbing a bite at any pretty little cafe along the main street.
The way is through a narrow path amidst greenery. Luang Prabang means “city of the Golden Buddha Phra Bang”, for the Enlightened One, who is considered the city’s protector. After years of brutal strife, the Buddha is looking after Laos. His blessing will rub off.