International Women's Day: Seafood restaurant slams patriarchy in Mayiladuthurai

It’s not every day that, along the Mayiladuthurai coast, you could see dolphins slap their tails, and take a flying leap out of the water.
The fisherwomen who run ‘Dolphin Unavagam’ in Poompuhar (L to R) – Uma, Stella, Selvarani, Geetha, Rajakumari and Pushpavalli. (Photo | Antony Fernando, EPS)
The fisherwomen who run ‘Dolphin Unavagam’ in Poompuhar (L to R) – Uma, Stella, Selvarani, Geetha, Rajakumari and Pushpavalli. (Photo | Antony Fernando, EPS)

MAYILADUTHURAI: It’s not every day that, along the Mayiladuthurai coast, you could see dolphins slap their tails, and take a flying leap out of the water. The seafront near the harbour in the coastal village of Poompuhar, though, is an exception.

It's where 'Dolphin Unavagam', a foodie’s paradise, challenges the connoisseur in you; it’s where a group of fisherwomen have shown the world that you can take a flying leap out of patriarchy's mires if you have got one thing in you - willpower.

Welcoming you with its thatches, stone tables, and tranquillity amid roaring waves, this is an all-women restaurant, which set sail in 2016, when V Stella Gracy, A Uma, A Selvarani, R Rajakumari, and K Saroja decided to join hands to paddle through the financial crises they were in.

With their husbands' monthly income not enough to make ends meet, they initially began a business where they would prepare and sell value-added products such as Karuvaadu (dry fish) and items such as fish cutlets and prawn pakoras. Seeing the response they received, the fisherwomen ventured into the idea of a start-up restaurant at a place close to the harbour, where fishermen, traders, and labourers throng every day.

The women took microfinance, rented a couple of plots for Rs 2,000 each, and cleared the invasive growth on it themselves to set up the hotel. Two others, A Geetha and K Pushapavalli, gradually joined the team and became partners. Thus began the journey of Dolphins, a first-of-its-kind initiative by women in the delta districts.

Stella Gracy (36), who is a BSc graduate, adds, "Before the pandemic, we used to make Rs 5,000 to Rs 10,000 per day. Other than serving at the hotel, we also take orders for various events. We made around Rs 25,000 to Rs 50,000 per head per month, which helped us settle our debt and make profits."

Dolphin's success did not come easily, says Stella, adding, "There were plenty of discouragements and taunts even from fellow men and women initially. Slowly, those who taunted us became our best customers."

S Selvarani (36), who had dropped out of school after Class 8 due to poverty, said, “A lot of people did not want us to start a business as we were women. There was indirect pressure from other restaurants as well. Dolphin’s success brought us respect from everyone who once doubted us.”

Amid the respect, though, there have been instances when the team was forced into situations where they had to fend for themselves. With the hotel’s proximity to the harbour, many tipplers used to visit it and behave impolitely to the hotel staff. The women say that the pandemic and lockdowns have slowed down their business. When the government restricted the number of customers, they kept some momentum alive through the parcel business.

They are grateful to 'MSSRF - Fish for All Centre' in Poompuhar, and a Nagapattinam-based non-profit organisation named 'SNEHA'.

Dr L Krishnan, the retired head of 'MSSRF - Fish for All Centre', says, "We trained them through our programmes and lent them our vessels to make some livelihood through value-added products. They learned keenly, utilised the platform well, and established a more profitable venture."

Stormy waves still lash Poompuhar's coast, men cast their nets to catch the minnows but the sight of Dolphins riding the crest remains 'the spectacle' - one for many to emulate in even turbulent waters.

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