BENGALURU: Jayanagar 4th T Block, till the 1990s a calm neighbourhood where boys could play gully cricket, is now a hub of many activities that cause a traffic frenzy. Taaza Thindi, an eatery that opened recently at a junction that already boasts a cake shop, a restaurant and a college, adds to the action.
Every day, hundreds of people stand in a queue to savour its simple fare. The clamour is remarkable, because you have two good darshinis close by, Kalpavriksha and Shanti Upahar, serving a wider variety.So what brings the crowds to Taaza Thindi? The prices, for one.
An idli costs `10 and a masala dosa ` 20, and in these inflationary times, anyone who offers you a good deal easily wins your love. In the short time it has been around, Taaza Thindi has earned itself the loyalty of many in the neighbourhood.
You might assume college students, with their limited pocket money, would patronise this eatery more than anyone else, but in fact, it attracts a cross-section of the middle class, and a large number of senior citizens in the largely vegetarian neighbourhood. Ammi’s Biryani, which had set up shop just a stone’s throw from here, closed shop recently, although further down the road towards the BMTC bus depot, in Tilaknagar, restaurants serving meat reign.
Minimalism is the word at Taaza Thindi. Talking about its decor, it is actually a darshini inspired by the American fast food joint, with neat counters, pop diet advice on a display board, and cleaning staff going around in neat uniforms. It also prides itself on its dishwasher, which uses organic detergent, and machines to make the idli and dosa batter rise.
Taaza Thindi, which means fresh snacks, serves idli, vada, khara bhath, kesari bhath,masala dosa, plain dosa, and coffee. That’s it. No gobi manchuri, no pav bhaji, no roti, no palak paneer. This is as Udupi as it gets, although that useful label has now been abandoned by eateries in Bengaluru.
The idli at Taaza Thindi is of decent girth, but the vada, at `10, looks like a lite version of what you might eat at the regular darshinis. Both are served hot. The vada is crisp because it is transferred to the plates within seconds of being fished out of the pan. It is difficult for any restaurant to distinguish itself by making these everyday dishes, but Taaza Thindi scores on freshness.
The khara bhath is actually what Kannadaigas call uppittu at home. The restaurants, thinking it is too commonplace a name, have given it the fancy name of khara bhath.
The khara bhath at Taaza Thindi is liquidy, evoking memories of the uppittu they make for breakfast at Kannadiga weddings.
Taaza Thindi’s version is tasty, and garnished with peas and a discreet quantity of vegetables. Its sweet sibling, the kesari bhath, is also of the wedding hall variety: hot, sweet and spiced with cloves, which adds a welcome contrasting tone. Incidentally, the kesari bhath in city restaurants is incorrectly named. Made or rava, it has neither kesari (saffron) nor bhath (rice). The original name of this sweet dish is sajjige.
The dosa offers the best deal at Taaza Thindi. At ` 20, customers believe it is a steal, and don’t mind lining up patiently for their turn. The dosa is snapped up quickly, and the capacity is limited, so you might have to wait for up to 15 minutes to taste this classic.
The masala dosa at Taaza Thindi is happily old world, and not overwhelmed by masala. The potato palya is bland, as it should be, and the red chutney is not too spicy. The spoonful of ghee they pour on top brings more nostalgia about an era when the masala dosa was crisp, honest, and didn’t push people to paranoia about their triglycerides.
The coffee, which comes half filled in a glass, costs `10, and has the slightly bitter taste that thr city had come to savour.
Overall, Taaza Thindi makes an impression with its no-frills fare, cleanliness, competent price, and simple decor. Get there when you feel like a quick bite.