When one thinks of travelling, Lucknow probably isn’t the first place that comes to mind, but it definitely deserves to. The capital of Uttar Pradesh is still as regal and full of culture as it was in the days of its peak glory. Just a one-hour flight or a 7.5-hour car ride from Delhi, Lucknow is quite easily accessible. In Victorian times, Awadh was a flourishing empire in the present day State of Uttar Pradesh with first Faizabad, then Lucknow as its capital. The Nawab of Lucknow was called the Nawab of all of Awadh. It was in the 1700s under these Nawabs that this area became rich in architecture, arts and a respectful manner of living called tehzeeb.
It would be difficult to directly translate the term but the culture was essentially an amalgamation of the Muslim and Hindu cultures in the Doab region on the banks of the Ganges. This mutual co-existence of the two cultures brought about the birth of this third culture which is unique to this area. People follow a way of talking, dressing, hospitality and food. In Lucknow, the tehzeeb mixes further with Persian and Mughal cultures, giving rise to a supremely inimitable way of living that still exists among the people of this area and is one to be experienced firsthand.
A two or three-day trip is enough to see all there is in Lucknow for a history and culture buff or a foodie. The most popular of all the monuments in the city is the Bara Imambada. Built under the reign of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, this building was requisitioned in 1785 as a solution to the problem of a great famine that was plaguing the area. The Nawab spent almost a million rupees in this endeavour, only to provide employment and the result of his goodwill still stands as a tourist destination. This building boasts of the largest arched ceiling in the world without any pillars supporting it and the hall houses the simple tomb of Asaf-ud-Daula. The complex contains a mosque and a bhool bhulaiya, which is an indoor maze. This maze is actually a series of underground labyrinths that functions as support for the building on top with some of these passageways rumoured to have access to Delhi and Faizabad. There also exists a Chota Imambada which is smaller but in its complex has replicas of the Taj Mahal.
Just outside the Imambada is the Rumi Darwaza. This 59-foot gateway is an awe-inspiring structure. The unrestrained designs that embellish this portal deserve more than a fleeting glance.
The Jama Masjid is the largest mosque in Lucknow — 260 pillars support the 15 domes that make up the structure — and each nook and crevice of this place of worship is covered in intricate carvings that leave one wondering how all of this was possible in the 1800s when it was constructed. A perfect balance of the Muslim and Hindu architecture, Lucknow’s Jama Masjid follows the true Awadhi syncretic culture.
If you are interested in shopping, a trip to Hazratganj or Aminabad. is a must. While Hazratganj was made as one of the ‘Queens Roads’ where local Indians were not allowed to venture, it now has modern and traditional showrooms. Here you can sample the famous galouti kebabs that melt in the mouth. Aminabad is in the old city where the traditional eateries and stores still have their old world charm. Tucked away from modernism, this area welcomes travellers with the famous Lucknowi andaaz of respect and hospitality. You can find fine handiwork in apparel, shoes, cosmetics and jewellery here. This is a good place to buy souvenirs of this royal city for your friends and family and enjoy a hearty meal of biriyani, kebabs and kormas after a day of shopping.
The city has unique buildings like the umbrella shaped Chatter Manzil and the Clock Tower — close to this is a gallery of the portraits of all the Nawabs of Awadh. Remnants of the British Raj in the Lucknow Residency and of course, the many locations for finding the local cuisine make for a very interesting city to put on your list of places to visit!