CHENNAI: A humble two-dimensional fabric with boastful three-dimensional feel? The ancient Shibori technique can manifest this and more. Master the skill, and one can emulate the designs of tree barks, raindrops and spider webs on cloth. “We are now working on a series of bird designs,” says Kusum Tiwari, who recently spoke about the journey of Mura — a textile and garments venture co-founded by her in 1988 along with her sister, at the Leela Palace. The event was organised by Apparao Galleries.
She showed us a sample cloth that had used the Shibori tie and dye technique. Navy blue base with butterfly images etched with white thread, sprinkled throughout its length. Unlike a plain normal shawl, the Shibori shawl had trenches, embossings and folds.
Shibori is a Japanese word that translates to ‘rinse, squeeze and press’. Though the technique was being used around the world, it was Yoshiko Wada, president of World Shibori network, who popularised it in 1992.
The eighth century technique, she says, involves multiple techniques like crumpling, plaiting, clamping, twisting or stitching among others. It uses wooden clamps and poles on which the cloth is wrapped and then released. This results in the dye settling in a random fashion, depending on the pressure applied around the pole. It’s all about letting randomness rule.
She was introduced to the Shibori technique by chance. Kusum had come across a catalogue from Kyoto National Museum which had images of clothes done using the technique. This followed with her training the local jat women in the rural pockets of Delhi. “It was a casually started venture. We employed women who were generally not allowed to step out of their house. They knew just the basics of stitching then,” says Kusum. And since 2000, Mura has been bringing out beautiful Shibori garments.
Prior to that, Kusum and her team worked with natural dyes. They were into weaving and block prints. They had received their first order from the National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC). Though they have only one boutique in Delhi, Mura has been exhibiting its works at the Crafts Council shows in Chennai. Fabrics from Mura also get distributed to Fabindia and Fairtrade Co Japan, among others.