It’s very strange to see the words ‘British Chicken Tikka masala’. Sitting on this side of the world, at a round table full of food enthusiasts at a festival organised by Curry Life Magazine, the curiosity is evidently shared. So, when the dish eventually arrives at our plush table at Spice Haat in the Hyatt Regency Chennai, expectations are soaring...And one can honestly say after this: any indignancy of the British tag is gone at first taste, because this curry tastes nothing like the Indian version.
At the ‘Taste of Britain Curry Festival,’ headed by Michelin star chef Mark Poynton, appearances are not always what they seem. The curries look the same. But that’s where the similarities end. Someone says about the chicken tikka... “it’s very sweet.” While another reviewer goes so far as to say after a moment’s pause — “I think I’m tasting jam!” The matter is quickly cleared up by one of the chefs of the travelling culinary team, who tells us, “What you’re tasting is mango.” Hold on. Mango, raw? “No pulpy ripe yellow mango,” he responds, taking us by surprise. He adds as an after thought, “There are also some Sultanas (raisins) in there...” However, our mango-heavy chicken tikka is one of the more prominent palate shockers for the afternoon.
There is also the more subtle Rosemary Lamb Tikka or a rather delicious Chicken Country Captain with a generous dose of limey-tang.
As the afternoon wears on, one becomes increasingly aware of a sense of appreciation welling within - for being raised around Indian spices that go boom on your tongue with multiple dimensions and no apology.
For while the Roast Sea Bass with cauliflower, chicory, raisin and Pedro Xinmenez sauce was a delightful forkful of gentle flavours with restraint - it turns out the Indian curry will always have us come home in a hurry.
The festival is available for lunch and dinner at Spice Haat abd Focaccia at the Hyatt Regency, Chennai, till March 14.
Beyond the Curry If you’d rather try some of this Michelin star chef’s signature British signatures, look forward to everything from a Roast Breast of Duck to Pumpkin Risotto with a blue cheese salad
