CHENNAI: By the ever busy RK Mutt Road stands a humble shop, ‘Trouser kadai’, as a testament to Mandaveli’s ‘eatery hub’ tag. The name might mislead anyone to think it’s an apparel store, but the locals know ‘Trouser kadai’ is a haven for scrumptious dishes. Trying to our way to this popular landmark in Mandaveli, we ask a rickshaw man for directions.
“Trouser kadai ‘ah’? Take the right and it’s the sixth shop to your left,” guides Muthumanikam, an auto driver for over 20 years. “Are you going to have lunch there? The mutton chukka is delicious.” he adds. We find the 40-year-old shop tucked between two structures. Devoid of any name on display, it invites its customers with just a worn-out board that reads ‘Saapadu ready’ (meals ready).
As we enter the shop, R Rajendran, the Virudhunagar-native who owns the eatery is busy preparing lunch for his customers who begin to swarm the shop by 1 pm. Towards the open kitchen at the back of the shop, we are greeted by the recognisable rustic smell of the ‘Veragu aduppu’. Clad in his trademark trousers — true to the shop’s known name — Rajendran enlightens us about his journey from Virudhunagar to Chennai.
“I arrived in Chennai in 1977 seeking treatment for my daughter who was mentally ill. We admitted her in the Institute of Child Health and Hospital for Children, Egmore,” he recalls. Looking for ways to support his family, Rajendran rented the space and delved into the eatery business, despite having limited knowledge in cooking. Sadly, his daughter passed away two years later. Nevertheless, Rajendran stayed back in the city with his family. “I had hired two chefs back then and they taught me how to make different masalas and cook the dishes in our menu. After they left, I took over the kitchen,” says the 73-year-old who manages the kitchen by himself, with occasional help from his loyal staff.
The shop was originally named Arunagiri Hotel whichchanged to Appa Kadai. “My customers used to call me Appa (father) and it became Appa kadai. I had a name board for my hotel only during the first year. There has been no name board for 39 years but, people still know of the shop,” he beams.
Over time, Rajendran’s trousers which he wears while cooking and serving became a trademark, and customers began associating the shop with his trousers. “Not many wore trousers back then and I was one of the few. Hence the name, ‘Trouser kadai’.” he grins.
Although the paint is peeling off the wall and the floor has cracks, loyal customers of the hotel vouch for its delicious dishes. “Where else can one find delicious mutton kola urundai and fish kozhambu for `80?” asks Rajasangaran, a customer. The price of his dishes ranges from `80 to `120 and is one of the main reasons why customers keep coming back. “We used to get about 200 customers a day…now it has gone down to 70 to 120,” he rues. “With new eateries springing up everywhere, it is tough. But, we have our regular customers and also three generations of customers who come almost every day,” he smiles.
The USP lies in its hand-ground masalas and slow cooked dishes. “We still use the traditional methods of grinding masalas and cooking with firewood. We use the Ammi to make our side dishes, and that gives the food an authentic flavour,” he explains.
When asked if he ever thinks of upgrading his shop, he smiles and says, “I don’t earn enough to renovate the place. I have to pay my staff and take care of my family…so, I haven’t thought about it,” he says.
As Rajendran heads back to cook, we spot a framed photo of poet Kannadasan on top of his bench and he grins. “That photo has been here for over 30 years and I am a big fan of ‘Kavignar’. I love his songs and I sometimes hum them while I cook,” he shares as he continues to add spices to the boiling fish kuzhambu.