In the early morning, before traffic begins to build, small carts across Chennai are already at work. Freshly squeezed thengaipaal is poured and passed around, customers lining up for a taste. In a city where every street corner has its tea stall, thengaipaal (coconut milk) carts are now fast becoming just as common, signalling the rise of the traditional summer soother as one of Chennai’s latest street trends.
What began as an attempt to offer a healthy, refreshing drink has quickly grown, with dedicated stalls appearing across neighbourhoods. From children to older residents, from early morning joggers to fitness enthusiasts, people gather around for a sip. As more vendors enter the space, social media has further amplified its reach.
“We wanted to offer a healthy summer drink and make it accessible to people,” says Ishwarya, who started her stall two months ago near her home before expanding to a second outlet in Anna Nagar. “Coconut milk has been sold in places like Athani and Erode since the 1970s, but there were no such dedicated spots in Chennai,” she claims.
The process is labour-intensive, requiring hours of preparation each day to ensure the milk remains fresh. It begins with sourcing fresh coconuts from the market. They are first broken open, with the coconut water separated. The shells are then removed, the flesh is cut into pieces, ground, and strained to extract the milk from the pulp. Despite being a healthy drink, thengaipaal has a short shelf life. Preparation starts as early as 3 am or 4 am, with the milk reaching stalls by around 6 am and often selling out by 9 am. “To make 25 litres of thick coconut milk, we need at least 50 to 55 coconuts,” says Ishwarya.
Served plain or sweetened with jaggery powder, depending on individual preference, thengaipaal has also seen a wave of innovation. Vendors are introducing natural flavour variations such as beetroot and butterfly pea, keeping the offerings diverse and appealing to a wider range of customers.
As the drink grows in popularity, doctors advise moderation. “The rise in coconut milk consumption reflects a shift towards more natural, minimally processed foods, but it is also being perceived as a ‘health food’ without enough context,” says Dr Pal Manickam, MD, MPH, founder of NewME, a virtual lifestyle medicine e-clinic. “The way coconut milk is prepared significantly affects its health impact. Fresh, diluted coconut milk without added sugar is a better option, while packaged versions often contain added sugar or stabilisers,” he adds.
“While coconut milk can be part of a healthy diet, it should be consumed in moderation due to its high saturated fat and calorie content, which may raise LDL cholesterol in some individuals,” he says, adding that it can serve as a useful alternative for those with lactose intolerance, as it is naturally lactose-free.
Vendors say the growing popularity of thengaipaal is driven by a mix of health awareness, summer demand, and social media visibility. “Instagram has also been useful — it helps reach a lot of people,” says Arthi, another stall owner in Anna Nagar. However, some vendors also note that the surge may be temporary. “Social media tends to hype up anything new. Only after that fades does the market settle, and that’s when it becomes normal day-to-day sales,” says Ishwarya.
Whether it remains a passing trend or becomes a lasting part of the city’s street food culture, for now, thengaipaal has firmly found its place in Chennai’s mornings.