For couturier Raghavendra Rathore, the idea has always been to create ensembles that are firmly rooted in heritage, all while always exploring newer design possibilities. True to its ethos, the Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur brand has always tried out-of-the-box, unconventional designs rather than sticking to trends.
Way back in 1994, when supermodel Meher Bhasin descended the stairs in the zenana section of the historic Mehrangarh Fort wearing a bespoke bandhgala with two satin princess panels on either side, it had a profound impact on fashionistas present at the show. It also catapulted the bandhgala to the global fashion map.
Since then, Raghavendra’s brand has been the flagbearer of this ethnic ensemble, dressing up the who’s who of the world—from Anil Kapoor, Amitabh Bachchan, Shah Rukh Khan, Virat Kohli, and Ranbir Kapoor to royalty like Manujendra Shah, the maharaja of the erstwhile kingdom of Tehri Garhwal and Padmanabh Singh, the maharaja of erstwhile kingdom Jaipur, among others.
Raghavendra, who has worked with global fashion names like Donna Karan and Oscar de la Renta when he was a budding designer, has come up with a minimalist and sophisticated line of winter-festive wear that can sort any man’s winter wedding wardrobe woes. We talk to the designer about the collection and the evolution of festive menswear over the years.
Tell us about your latest wedding collection?
The festive season this year has a new demand—subdued and sustainable looks that can be revisited again. Gone are the days of extremely heavy embroideries. There seems to be a more obvious focus on the cuts, textures, and silhouette styles in the most beautiful way. What hasn’t changed is the selection of colours. Now, it’s all about darker colours for non-ceremonial evenings and lighter colours for festive nights.
What about the idea behind the designs?
An understated elegance and a deeper sense of style elevate the entire thought process behind the collection. Colours, textures, and small details form the core of the design plan, giving the wearer endless options to fulfil festive wardrobe requirements for the season.
How has the market for grooms’ wear changed?
Modern grooms prefer more stylish outfits that complement the bride rather than dominating the trousseau worn by her. Choosing subtle looks over the heavy ornate designs of the yesteryears marks a definite shift in how grooms are dressing these days.
Has your brand evolved over the years?
Season after season, understanding the demands of our customers, the design collections seem to get more palatable for the times. Post-COVID, the menswear segment in India has evolved in many aspects, the most important being that high-end clients prefer to wear clothes which are subtle, subdued, and personalised. This season, the grooms’ wear market will be dominated by gold, shades of sand and beiges, with a focus on accessories that emphasise good taste.
Any wedding wardrobe must-haves for men?
The classic achkan in many avatars and, of course, a host of jodhpuri bandhgala jackets and suits are absolutely essential for the Indian wedding wardrobe.
What’s a fashion faux pas one must avoid this season?
Matching men’s outfits head to toe with the brides’ trousseau and heavily-embroidered outfits, especially the ones that resemble embroidered cushions in a modern-day living room.
Tell us about an upcoming edit you are working on?
A Moroccan-inspired travel collection is on the cards which is fun and festive. The idea is to add new value to many aspects of the festive events that are part of any five to six-day-long wedding ceremony.
Price on request.rathore.com