A dazzling ramp turned into a whimsical white forest dotted with tree-like structures inside the regal Durbar Hall of the Taj Palace. As models glided down the runway, the air reverberated with evergreen retro Bollywood melodies like ‘Aao Na Gale Laga Lo Na’ and ‘Sama Hai Suhana’ casting a spell of glamour and seduction. TMS was at Suneet Varma’s Hyundai India Couture Week 2024 show, ‘Nazm’. The edit was a feast for the senses, featuring fishtail sequin lehengas, slit-skirt dresses, ruffle saris with bell sleeve blouses and fluid chiffons. Varma’s innovative use of appliqué in shiny metallic foil blends, silver accents, and floral embroidery in gold and silver brought glamour to a palette of pale grey, celadon green, ice pink, ivory, midnight blue and burgundy shades. “Unlike the more minimalist approach seen in global couture, Indian couture has a strong emphasis on storytelling through fashion,” says Varma on Indian couture sensibilities adding that lightweight, opulent and asymmetrical designs will always be in vogue. According to him, the use of metallic accents and jewel-toned embellishments will continue to be popular, as it reflects a harmonious blend of heritage and contemporary style. A spotlight on other emerging couture trends of the season:
JJ Valaya’s royal nomadism
Ace designer JJ Valaya drew from the rich tapestry of historical cities like Delhi, Istanbul and Isfahan at his runway presentation ‘Muraqqa’. Muraqqa means an album book of poems, miniature paintings, and other artistic treasures. “With this collection, we celebrate the depth and beauty of Islamic art in a fresh, modern style that resonates with today’s audience. It’s our way of creating a new ‘Muraqqa’ — a curated fashion album that tells the story of these great cultural centres,” he says. The runway adorned with carpets and lamps had models donning timeless traditional wear like lehengas, saris, sherwanis, and Nehru jackets with bohemian-inspired prints, in a nod to the royal and nomadic DNA of the label.
Roserooms’ French fantasy
Designer Isha Jajodia conjured romance on the ramp with a collection inspired by Parisian elegance. Pearl work, laces, pastel shades and floral grace melded with India’s fine Chikankari in a fusion of Indo-French aesthetics in her edit, ‘Art of Eternity’. Showstopper Jacqueline Fernandez dazzled the runway in a shimmery black gown with a dramatic net robe with intricate lacework while models put on peplum gowns with head trails, structured corsets over skirts, and lace saris for a dreamy showcase. “I foresee brides embracing couture trends that seamlessly marry timeless elegance with personal expression. My collection epitomises this fusion, marrying traditional Indian craftsmanship with French-inspired design elements,” Jajodia says.
Amit Aggarwal’s futuristic dressing
The designer who is celebrated for his ‘engineered’ outfits that are a meld of art and science in garment construction, brought yet another future-forward showcase that explores a cosmic connection between time and the universe. His edit, ‘Antevorta’, named after the ancient Roman goddess of the future had avant-garde ensembles—red drip embroideries on tuxedos symbolic of melting time clocks, re-imagination of pre-loved Banarasi saris into modern sculptural drapes, and metallic diaphanous gowns showing his dexterity in form, fabric and structure.“Our couture line transcends conventional fashion boundaries. By envisioning time as five distinct yet interconnected entities, we extend our narrative beyond the realm of fashion”, says the designer.
Siddartha Tytler’s macabre touch
Designer Siddartha Tytler who often finds beauty in dark and macabre aspects of life, brings yet another collection on this intriguing theme. His edit, ‘Caligula’s Feast’, was inspired by the tyrannical Roman Emperor Caligula who has gone down in history as a reckless ruler. On the ramp was a showcase of what the designer calls “self-indulgence and extravagance, beautifully infused with richness and debauchery.” Showstoppers Malaika Arora and Rahul Khanna, along with models, paraded in lehengas, kurtas, saris, gowns and corsets in dark shades of maroon, black, grey, navy and emerald. Gunmetal embroidery, sequins, crystals, rhinestones, fur and appliqué added a touch of drama. Is the Indian buyer ready to shell out on such bold pieces? “As people embrace their individuality, there is a readiness to explore darker shades and Goth-inspired aesthetics, making way for innovative and daring fashion choices,” the designer says, forecasting “a strong trend” towards dramatic drapery, bold silhouettes, and rich jewel tones.