Ruins from Delhi’s past are scattered all around us, silently narrating the city’s turbulent history. Over the centuries, empires have risen and fallen on this terrain, each leaving behind legacies that continue to echo through the edifices of grandeur embodied in the many monuments across. Some of these monuments are well preserved and remain active heritage sites, but many are ruins that inspire a sublime feeling. How else does one register the majestic gates, serpentine rubble walls, and dense histories of these remains if not through a state of awe?
Among these ruins, forts stand out as a distinctive typology of architectural heritage. They map the urban geography and serve as chronological markers that delineate the timeline of Delhi’s history. “Delhi was never a single city until the British took over. With separate cities built next to each other by different kings, each one built their own fortification and palaces.
There were also security garrisons around each city. All these were forts,” says Vikramjit Singh Rooprai, a heritage activist, writer, and educator. His new book, Delhi Heritage Top 10 Forts, the second volume in the Delhi Heritage Top 10 series by Niyogi Books, is set to be launched at the India International Centre on August 31.
Rooprai’s journey into heritage activism is as fascinating as the forts he has written about. Originally an IT professional, his passion for history gradually led him to immerse himself in the study and preservation of Delhi’s heritage. Over the years, he has been leading large groups of enthusiasts on heritage walks across Delhi, sharing his deep knowledge and love for the city’s historical treasures. He is also dedicated to educating young people and teachers about what he calls “the rich science of our heritage.”
Laying claims to the Old Fort
TMS recently attended Rooprai’s heritage walk at Purana Qila to gain insights into his upcoming publication and to experience firsthand the connection he builds between the public and Delhi’s rich past.
The group gathered at the entry of Purana Qila and began by exploring the well recovered from the lake area and the Talaqi Darwaza at the far end of the fort’s lake. The fort, also known as Shergarh, has become a focal point for archaeological excavation, with layers of history claiming its precincts. Rooprai’s book delves into these narratives, both historical and mythical, offering a comprehensive account of the fort’s significance.
“Qila, fort, garh, and kot are some of the words used to identify a fortification,” Rooprai had explained during the walk. Purana Qila, along with other popular sites like the Red Fort and Tughlaqabad Fort, is a treasure trove for those interested in Delhi’s layered past. Beyond its defensive architecture, the fort is home to several important structures, including the Qila-i-Kuhna mosque, a mediaeval hamam, and Shermandal, the library where the Mughal emperor Humayun tragically fell to his death.
Walls do have ears
“Fortified walls have always been built to protect the insides,” Rooprai elaborated. “It could be a city, a village, a palace, a garrison, or a prison. In modern times, we see historic forts as tourist destinations, but many continue to serve their original purposes. For example, Delhi’s Red Fort was under military control until the 1980s, and the adjoining Salimgarh Fort is still under the control of the CISF and remains off-limits to the public.”
Rooprai’s book focuses on of Delhi’s most significant forts, each selected on the basis of accessibility, historical value, size, and the extent of preservation. The forts he has chosen include the Red Fort, Tughlaqabad Fort, Kotla-i-Ferozshahi, Salimgarh, Lal Kot, Adilabad, Siri Fort, Najafgarh, Nai ka Kot, and Purana Qila.
As Rooprai notes, each fort was strategically placed to defend the city and its inhabitants. High hills, mounds, and proximity to the Yamuna River were often chosen for their defensive advantages. For example, Tughlaqabad Fort, built by Ghazi Malik, is the largest surviving fort in Delhi, constructed in just two years from the laying of its foundation in 1321. Despite its size, the fort was abandoned soon after its construction, but it continues to remain a formidable structure.
Purana Qila, on the other hand, offers a more complex narrative. Originally believed to be the site of the ancient city of Indraprastha, the fort has seen multiple rulers and renovations. Its most famous period was during the reign of Sher Shah Suri, who strengthened the fort’s defences and left behind structures that still stand today.
Heritage activism
Through his work, Rooprai hopes to inspire a new generation of heritage enthusiasts. His approach is not just about preserving the past but about engaging with it actively. “Don’t just visit a site; try to live it. Respect it,” he advises. “When I do my research, my intention is to find as much as I can about the site, especially from the contemporary records of that period. There is so much content available. One needs to develop an interest in finding it.”
Delhi Heritage Top 10 Forts showcases never-before-seen archival images of the fort complexes from the ASI collection, and includes rare anecdotes about the history of djinns of Kotla-i-Ferozshah, the mysterious Nai-ka-Kot, Adilabad Fort, and more. It is a handbook and a ready reference of the stories of its opulent patrons, a compass for wandering enthusiasts, and a barometer of the rise and fall of all the cities we know as Delhi.