"In the past one year, India has seen exponential growth. There is a market for everyone here, only if you know how to study the pulse of the audience,” is the opening remark of UK-based designer Raishma Islam as she sits before me in one of her creations, an orange print maxi dress featuring button details running down the centre, sheer bishop sleeves with plackets at the shoulders, placement print on the cuffs and a white overcoat to combat Delhi’s weather.
Islam’s eponymous brand boasts a global customer base comprising Hollywood stars such as Amanda Holden, Goldie Hawn, and British royal family members Princess Eugenie and Princess Beatrice, nieces of King Charles. The brand has a boutique store in Marylebone, London, since 1998; here it houses its ready-to-wear collection, bespoke bridal pieces and the recently launched studio collection, a line of dresses.
After nearly three decades of success, she is now eyeing expansion. Islam places India at the forefront, sharing her longstanding connection with the country. She tells TMS: “Since the early 2000s, I have been outsourcing my work to factories in Faridabad and Noida. My collection is made in India. So why not have a market here I thought.” West Asia, starting with Dubai, and the US are also in her sights.
Sustainable luxury fits
Offering a virtual tour of her debut collection, set to launch on Nykaa Luxury, Aza Fashions, and eventually Tata CLiQ starting March 1, Islam underlines the collection’s resonance with the Indian audience. “I noticed a gap for a high-quality and affordable line of printed dresses, which women can wear to office, parties and even on a day out,” she says.
The carefully chosen 30 pieces are made of fabrics such as viscose, chiffon and cotton; they have a vibrant colour palette and floral prints, detailing around the collar, printed borders and straight-fit silhouettes. It is a vibrant collection and has a Bohemian feel. The studio collection, with a price range between Rs 13,000 and Rs 18,000, is available in seven sizes, ranging from six to 18.
“In 2021, I started Raishma Studio to develop a collection of elegant, flattering, and well-priced styles that worked for many customer profiles,” she explains. “I want people to invest in luxury fits and repeat them. Hoarding clothes isn’t the right practice.”
Sustainability is an essential pillar of Islam’s collection. So, what are the steps she is taking to stay committed to this virtue? “We use plastic, which is over 70 per cent recycled, and cotton tote bags instead of the paper ones. We are a slow-fashion brand. Our dresses not only last years but are timeless,” she adds. They are also looking forward to adding linen to their sustainable fabric mix. Islam says she has a clear vision “to provide affordable and sustainable luxury in India” and become the flag bearer of “West meets East”.
Cultural roots
Raised in the UK, Raishma’s mother is from Karachi and her father from Kolkata. “My dream of becoming a fashion designer began early. I learnt from my mother. I received my first sewing machine at eight and haven’t stopped creating since,” she says. By 12, Islam was creating fusion outfits.
As she grew up watching Pakeezah, Umrao Jaan, and Amar Akbar Anthony, she was always drawn to style and glamour. Her British Asian heritage exposed her to diverse cultural influences, fuelling her passion for uniting the East’s silks, hand embroidery, and vibrant colours with Western cuts and tailoring.
She draws inspiration from history, art, and nature when it comes to prints and designs. “It ranges from British socialist and textile designer William Morris’ artworks to Oscar-Claude Monet’s coral reefs and Japanese florals. Highly inquisitive by nature, I am constantly searching for new inspirations, which keep my designs at the forefront of fashion and make women feel confident and beautiful,” she explains.
Couture relationships
While stitching and embroidery were deeply rooted in her culture, Islam’s love for couture blossomed when she worked with Elizabeth Emmanuel, co-designer of Princess Diana’s famous wedding dress.
“It was an incredible experience. I learned to use corsetry and create structured boned bodices, which I later incorporated into my couture. As a designer, I picked up two skills from Emmanuel: attention to detail and precise fitting,” she says.
Over the years, Islam has worked with numerous stars of the showbiz world. Her most memorable experience has been with singer Melanie B of the Spice Girls. “One of my favourites is a jacket and a pair of hot pants hand-encrusted with Swarovski pieces. We designed it together on a Saturday, and she was wearing it live on ITV the following weekend. The entire piece was handmade within just six days. It was stressful but fun,” she recalls.
Ahead of her launch in India, Islam has collaborated with Bollywood stars as well. Actors such as Raveena Tandon, Mouni Roy, Mandana Karimi, Gauahar Khan and Adaa Khan have been her muses. “Some other collaborations are in the pipeline,” she says, with a wink.