On the southern coast of South Korea lies Jeju, the country’s largest island. Although it accounts for only 1.83 percent of South Korea’s total area, it contributed up to 32.3 percent of the country’s tourist revenues in 2021.
The geography may be rugged, but tourists are drawn to its picturesque beauty and its rich indigenous cultures, including the Haenyeo’s, whose recorded history goes back to the 5th century.
Haenyeo are professional women divers who sustain themselves by harvesting a variety of molluscs, seaweed, and other sea life using sustainable practices. UNESCO recognised the Haenyeo traditions as an intangible cultural heritage in 2016. The Korean Culture Centre in Delhi celebrates it with an exhibition to familiarise Indians with Korea’s unique culture. Today being World Oceans Day gives people another reason to visit it. Curator Kim Kanghun says the plan to hold this exhibition began during the G20 Summit held in Delhi last September.
The diving tradition is over a thousand years old. By the 17th century, the divers were predominantly women, says Niki Alsford, a professor of Anthropology and Human Geography at the University of Central Lancashire; he recently conducted field research on Haenyeo, including on their diving costumes.
There are various theories as to what happened to the male divers, known as ‘pojak’. Some suggest that most men lost their lives in the rough seas of Jeju. A 17th-century record suggests that when the abalone (a kind of mollusc) was seized by the royal government, male divers, outraged by this, left Jeju in large numbers, and sought employment in far-off places, leaving behind only the women divers. “The 20th century also saw the shift from cotton swimsuits, known as ‘mulot’, to rubber wetsuits, allowing better insulation, and longer and deeper dives,” says Alsford. Large-scale commercial fishing eventually reduced dependence on the Haenyeo, leading to a decline in the number of new divers. “As a result, to preserve the tradition, the practice was recognised by UNESCO,” he adds.
Sustainable practices
Along with better wetsuits, the Jeju government went on to provide the women with modern equipment like goggles and fins. However, what remains unchanged is diving without oxygen cylinders. “Diving without oxygen tanks, even while using other modern equipment, is a deliberate choice,” says Kim. It aligns with the Haenyeo philosophy of sustainability. “By limiting their dive time and breath-hold capacity, they naturally regulate their harvesting, ensuring they do not overexploit marine resources. Using oxygen tanks would mean longer and deeper dives, potentially resulting in overfishing and disrupting marine life,” Kim explains.
Is the practice economical? “Yes, it is,” says the curator. Since the practice harvests seafood without any heavy machinery, it minimises production costs, making this a low-cost and economically viable approach. The government also provides subsidies, and training programmes, and encourages tourism initiatives that help the Haenyeo community sustain their traditional practices.
Following rituals
Another old tradition that remains prominent among Haenyeo divers are their ritualistic practices before and after dives. The Haenyeo pray at Haesindang, a shrine by the sea, for their safety and an abundant harvest. They also perform the Jamsugut and Yowanggut dances at the shrine. “These dances are integral parts of their spiritual practices and serve to strengthen communal bonds,” says Kim. Practices of the Haenyeo community are also closely associated with shamanistic rituals. For instance, Aekmagi, a ‘purification ritual’, is performed to ward off evil spirits and ensure a safe dive. Offerings are also made to the sea goddess, asking for her protection and “bountiful yields,” says the curator.
The best part? Their hard work and determination. “Haenyeos brave harsh climatic conditions and cold waters. Their respect for the ocean and commitment to sustainable fishing is truly inspiring,” he says. There is much to learn from them.
The Jeju Haenyeo exhibition is on at the Korean Cultural Centre India Gallery at Lajpat Nagar till June 21, 9am to 6pm, closed on weekends