I spotted fresh, juicy pineapples in the subzi mandi a few days back, and instantly brought some to make my summer favourite, Pineapple Pulissery. Served as a part of Onam Sadya, it is my favourite accompaniment in the 24-item spread.
To make it, I carefully grated fresh coconut and mixed it with a handful of mustard seeds and green chillies, and then pounded to make a coarse mixture. Then, I added pineapples boiled in turmeric water. Once this mixture cooled down, I added chilled, whisked curd to it and then tempered it with curry leaves and served it with steamed rice.
Though this is usually eaten as an accompaniment to the main dishes, I love having it just as it is, with Papadams on the side for crunch. Come summers, and you can see an evident shift in the cuisine that is cooked in my house.
From the bold flavours of North, I shift to lighter but equally flavourful curries from Gujarat, Maharashtra and southern India—with different types of kadhi, rasams, pulissery and rice-based dishes taking centre-stage.
Last week, Nitika Kuthiala, a Himachali home-chef based in Noida, invited me home for lunch. She had prepared a Himachali spread which featured dishes that are made in the state during the hot summer months to celebrate the summer bounty. The dish that stood out for me from the plethora was Ambua. It is made using ripe desi mangoes, which are cooked in a curd-based gravy and eaten with rice.
There was also a pumpkin-based dish served cold, mixed with sesame seeds—very similar to the Kumaoni raita from Uttarakhand. In Gurugram, home-chef Surabhi Bhandari has been generously sharing summer special recipes with her followers on Instagram. The ones that caught my eye were Sattu Ki Chaach and Raagi Ki Raab—both unique and less-explored. Sattu, or powdered black gram, acts as a cooling agent in the summer heat and also helps maintain energy levels.
Similarly, raab is an essential part of the summer diet of Jodhpur—Bhandari’s hometown. Raagi Ki Raab is similar to Ambli in Karnataka, and is one of the best probiotic drinks that one can consume in this heat. It helps cool the gut, and also guards against heat strokes—crucial amid the ongoing on slaught of heat in the NCR this year.
Author and Ayurveda expert, Delhi-based Sangeeta Khanna, also spoke with me recently about her go-to summer favourites—one of them is sprouted ragi milk. She explained it as a beverage best-suited for those looking for a light lunch with maximum hydration and nutrition value. Made using sprouted ragi mixed with water and blended together with a little honey, ginger powder, salt and ice cubes, it is an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant beverage that is good for all age-groups.
A rage after Chef Kishwer Chaudhury featured it in Masterchef Australia, the humble Panta Bhaat or Pakhala as they call it in Odisha, has climbed the charts to becoming the most sought after summer dish too, after years of being the common man’s food. A few days ago, I noticed home-chef Tallina Patnaik, a resident of Delhi, to have hosted a beautiful sit-down pop-up at her home, which celebrated this humble but flavourful dish. The Pakhala—fermented rice flavoured with mango-ginger and lemon leaves—is served with a side of Amba Checha, Alu Chatka, fermented bamboo, Aloo-Chingudi Bati Basa (shrimp and ridge gourd in mustard paste) and variety of fritters. Needless to say, the meal was a hit and a talk of the town.
Even in this scorching heat and unforgiving month of May, Delhi puts together a vibrant showcase of the kaleidoscope that is its culinary scene.
A melting pot of culture and communities from across India, one can savour the flavours from myriad regions and celebrate the summer bounty. These cooling meals from some of the best home-chefs and experts are just a glimpse into the culinary wealth that we possess.
Vernika Awal
is a food writer who is known for her research-based articles through her blog ‘Delectable Reveries’