HYDERABAD: Perfected in the kitchens of the Nizams, Hyderabadi biryani is known for its rich and tempting flavour. It is undoubtedly the best of South Indian dishes and foreigners arriving in the Pearl City scour the streets in search of the delicacy.
But the signature dish of the Pearl City is yet to get the Geographical Indication (GI) tag. It’s been more than six years since the hoteliers from Hyderabad applied for GI status for the culinary delight, but nothing has materialised till date. Though it is said that the origin of the unique ‘dum’ biryani can be traced to Persia, the hoteliers failed to produce historical evidence about the origin of the culinary. Experts are also of the opinion that the non-disclosure of complete recipe might have posed hurdles to the the efforts to get the prestigious GI tag.
In 2009, nearly 200 hotels in the city joined hands and formed an association named Connoisseurs of Deccani Biryani Maker Association and applied for the GI tag for Hyderabadi Biryani at the Geographical Indication’s registry office in Chennai.
Ravi S, Intellectual Property Attorney, who was also part of the team which successfully got GI tag for Hyderabadi Haleem, said it was the failure to produce historical evidence that spoiled the efforts. “The difference between us and them was that we did our homework meticulously. They were asked to provide historical proofs some two years ago and they were unable to do so. It’s not rocket science or something, they can get it easily. They just need to get a certified translator and get the work done.” “There was a maze of confusion among the members, even if they got stuck somewhere, they could have simply followed the process obtained by Hyderbadi Haleem group. Another big problem with this group is that all the makers are not coming under one umbrella. Anyway, it’s just a matter of time, for sure we will get the GI tag for the Biryani,” he added.
Meanwhile, many critics opined that the reluctance of the hoteliers to reveal the recipe was the stumbling block for getting the GI tag for Hyderabadi biryani.
“I have come to know that the group has not shared the complete recipe of the Biryani with registry. This might also be a reason for not getting GI tag till now,” said Shubhjeet Sahu, an independent attorney.
In 2013, the GI registry had asked the applicants to produce documentary proof in respect of historical data and proof of the origin of ‘Hyderabadi Kacchi Ghosth Dum Biryani’.
They were also asked to structure an internal watchdog mechanism to maintain the quality of GI product.
The other requirements stated by the GI registry are to file logo for better identification and protection of GI rights, to explain the special human skills involved, along with the uniqueness of the product and to constitute an independent inspection committee to maintain quality of the product and to regulate the use of GI indication.
“The Hyderabadi Biryani was not denied the GI tag, it is still under the process and as soon as they provide us the required information, we will take a decision accordingly,’ an official from the registry said. After the registry asked the group to comply with requirements, there was no response from the applicants.
Once the GI tag is attained, nobody can claim to sell Hyderabadi Biryani anywhere in the country, unless and until it conforms to the standards set by an association of hoteliers.
