HYDERABAD: When I visited Thailand, top on my agenda was to see a live demonstration of vegetable and fruit carving. Having acquired a bit of proficiency in this art (I was taught by some experts when I lived in Delhi and later by an Indian lady who lived in Thailand earlier), I was all the more keen on watching the Thai do it. This Thai art is a venerable tradition that has been passed down from ancient times. Considered one of the ten traditional Thai crafts, it is used in making food offerings for monks, entertaining guests, ordinations, weddings and royal funerals.
My gracious hosts (the hotel staff) at Banyan Tree- Phuket arranged for me an elaborate carving session. The young chef John Lee was waiting for me at the appointed hour, loaded with all the paraphernalia and some already carved beauties. He had a basket full of flowers, all made from fruits and vegetables. It reminded me of my own creations, but neither the craft nor the finesse can ever be compared. I am not born with that kind of talent nor do I have that kind of expertise which he was exposed to. As John started working on a watermelon, he narrated the history of vegetable carving.
It started during the Loi Kratong festival in the 14th century. This festival takes place on the full moon evening in November when the Thai people send their Krathongs (floating lamps or rafts) floating down a river, canal, pond, or lake, to pay respect to the spirits of the water. In the year 1364, one of King Phra Ruang’s servants, Nang Noppamart created a unique decoration for her raft: she carved a flower from a vegetable using a real flower as a pattern. She carved a bird as well and set it beside the flower.
Using these carvings, she created a raft that stood out above the rest. King Phra Ruang was impressed by the grace and beauty of the carving and decreed that every woman should learn this new art.As time passed, enthusiasm for this art waxed and waned. In 1808, King Rama II loved vegetable carving so much so that he wrote poetry about it. However, during the 1932 revolution in Thailand, appreciation for vegetable carving died down.
In order to revive interest, now it is taught from the age of 11 in primary schools through secondary school, and optional courses are also offered in universities throughout the country. In the mid 20th Century, the art of vegetable carving began to spread outside Thailand. Since then other cultures have slowly come to appreciate the beauty and culture associated with the practice. The products of vegetable carving are generally flowers or birds; however, the only limit is one’s imagination.
The techniques of the art vary from person to person, as does the final result. Some carvings present more artistic detail, while others have simple, yet beautiful shapes. It is generally used as a garnish as well as a flower arrangement.It has been said that the artistry of food preparation touches the five basic senses: hearing, sight, smell, taste and touch. Visual appeal is perhaps sensed first, and that leads to the enjoyment that comes from employing the other senses. Visual presentations are often brought to a high artistic level in sugar, chocolate, ice, vegetable and fruit carvings.
When working with sugar and chocolate, there are chemistry aspects to be considered and special tools to be mastered. This is also the case with ice carving, with the addition of the physical strength required. Among these mediums, vegetable and fruit carving is the least complicated. Fruit carving requires few tools-often just a small paring knife. It can be done simply and quickly for production, or taken to another level with more time and training.
It is one of the mainstays of buffet presentations on cruise ships and in hotels and resorts, as well as in clubs. Even though many carvings are made with just a paring knife, there are specific toolkits that contain from six pieces at the basic level to 87 cutting pieces used by expert carvers. Certain fruits, such as papayas, canary melons, watermelons and Chinese melons, lend themselves well to carving, but almost any fruit can be carved into something beautiful.
By the time John finished the story, a beautiful pink flower emerged from the unromantic, fat watermelon. As his deft fingers played with a simple paring knife, I wondered at the sensitive and aesthetic art that lies innate in every Thai. It shows in their calm demeanour, soft speech and gentle manners. Of course, the smile is always a bonus that is thrown in!John held the flower, gazing at his creation while I clicked pictures in full admiration of his love and dedication to art. He wiped the paring knife ever so gently, kissed it and put it away carefully in his pocket.
“Madam, this knife is my everything and very dear to me” he said in way of explanation. Yes, I could understand and appreciate.
(The author is a travel writer and a documentary filmmaker focusing on art, culture and history)