There are pop-ups that introduce a cuisine, and then there are those that tell a story. The recent Naga Culinary Trails at Feast, Sheraton Hyderabad Hotel, did both — bridging distance, culture and history through the unmistakable flavours of the Northeast India. For many diners, it offered a rare opportunity to explore a cuisine often spoken of in whispers of heat and mystery, yet deeply rooted in simplicity, tradition and a profound respect for the land.
Curated by award-winning chef and restaurateur Joel Basumatari, the festival (on till December 14) invites guests to savour the bold, soulful flavours of Nagaland through specially crafted lunch and dinner menus, culminating in a signature brunch. Raised in Nagaland and steeped in its culinary traditions, Chef Joel is one of the strongest voices championing Naga cuisine. As Chef Ambassador for North East India with the India Food Tourism Organisation (IFTO), he has long worked with local farmers and indigenous communities to preserve heirloom ingredients and sustainable cooking practices.
At the heart of Naga cuisine lies its minimalism — little oil, almost no masala, and an emphasis on smoking, fermenting and slow boiling to draw out clean, potent flavours. Smoked meats, bamboo shoots, fermented soybean (axone) and fiery Naga chillies shape its foundation, creating dishes that are rustic, layered and surprisingly light on the palate. “We’re working with ingredients straight from North Nagaland — ingredients that carry not just flavour, but culture and tradition,” says Chef Joel.
For him, the menu represents the entire region. “I may be from Nagaland, but whenever I cook at events like this, I represent the whole North-East. I love my North-East,” he adds with pride.
To bring that authenticity to Hyderabad, nearly 50 kilos of produce were transported for the pop-up. He credits the Sheraton team for ensuring smooth logistics. “We’re doing smoked pork, smoked chicken, and dishes using ingredients many people may not have tasted before. I wouldn’t call them exotic; they’re just different from what people here are used to,” he notes.
The simplicity of the cuisine, he explains, is its greatest charm. “There’s hardly any masala. We don’t use oil — most dishes are stewed or boiled. Any oil you see comes from the natural fat of the meat,” he explains.
Ask him what defines Naga cuisine and he doesn’t hesitate: “Its simplicity. It’s like home cooking. As chefs, we tweak flavours a little to make it more palatable for guests — but everything remains as authentic as possible, including the names of the dishes.”
For him, regional Indian cuisine isn’t a trend but the future. “We’ve had enough of outside food. It’s time to explore and celebrate what the eastern parts of India have to offer,” he says.
Chef Joel’s culinary journey began in 2005. “Next year will be 21 years,” he smiles. But the early years were challenging. “In the beginning, no one called us for events. Patience is the most important word for a chef. If you stay committed to your craft, the reward comes,” he recalls. After 12 years, calls finally started pouring in from five-star hotels across India. “That’s success — not money, but appreciation. Recognition,” he further adds.
Hyderabad, he says, holds a special connection. “My father studied at Osmania University, so coming here feels like returning to a place he once walked,” he mentions. As we wrap up, his excitement is unmistakable. “We’re looking forward to sharing more food and more stories with Hyderabad,” he shares fondly.
The feast lived up to that promise. Appetisers set the tone — NSB Chicken Skewers in his signature Naga spice blend with a roasted smoked chilli-garlic sauce, and Pork Skewers glazed with soy, local ginger and smoked chilli. The main course delivered its own stars: Mejenga Fried Rice, Tree Tomato Chutney, and the Angami speciality Kenie Thevu Gacha, a comforting chicken-and-perilla paste preparation. But the dessert stole the show — the Coffee Pannacotta, decadent yet delicate, with a crunchy turmeric tuile and the tang of macerated strawberries. A fitting finale to a meal that celebrated not just flavour, but identity.