AZA House in Banjara Hills, recently opened up into a quiet play of colour, craft and movement, where every rack seemed to carry its own story. As Bandhani by Siddhartha Daga unfolded through drapes and detailed lehengas, the designer stood close by, watching his work settle into Hyderabad, a city that knows how to embrace statement dressing with ease. In conversation with CE, Siddhartha talks about Hyderabadi fashion, trends and more.
For him, Hyderabad is not new ground, although this format is. He shared how this visit felt slightly different from the many before it. “This is our first time in Hyderabad together, as we have done lots of exhibitions here before, and I have been coming for almost 20 years. But this is the first time we have collaborated and are doing a pop-up here,” he says, looking around at the display.
Over the years, his understanding of the city’s taste has only deepened, shaped largely by the people he has dressed. He spoke about a specific preference that defines Hyderabad. “Hyderabad clients are generally inclined more towards royalty and they do not want very light outfits. The clientele prefers something much more heavier, prettier, and something which is out of the league; it is not money which they are looking for but something which will stand out in a crowd. The Hyderabad collections are designed keeping the city’s heritage in mind,” he shares.
That sensibility naturally finds its way into his design decisions, especially when it comes to colour. He explained how the City of Pearls leans into a certain visual boldness. “Hyderabad has both sides in colours, but it leans more towards brighter tones, as seen in my collection here. Although we do pastels, it is mostly bright. Off-whites and blacks are mostly avoided in Hyderabad, though we do offer them,” he expresses.
While bandhani as a craft has seen a surge in popularity across silhouettes today, Siddhartha’s approach to it remains deeply rooted in process and control. He explained how his work is built from the ground up. “I have been doing only bandhanis for 25 years. We customise our own bandhanis, so we are not taking them from someone else. The collection has signature pieces made by us, with our design and karigars,” he highlights.
For Siddhartha, the real goal has never been to chase trends. He further spoke about designing with time in mind, rather than seasons. “Our main focus, even though bandhani is very traditional, has been to make it something which people will like to wear. I have clients who have taken pieces from me 20 years ago, and still enjoy wearing them, because to have those kind of timeless pieces and elegance in the wardrobe is what we want to stand for. While it is very easy to design a lehenga when we are playing with sequins, stones and all that kind of work, to make pieces timeless you have to have that extra bit of effort,” he shares.
The journey into Bandhani, he recalled, began almost instinctively. “It was actually started by me and my mom when I just passed out of college. She had been to Jaipur and got some clothes, then it took off very well and I got into it full time. My design philosophy has evolved towards timeless yet contemporary pieces which are lightweight and chosen depending on the design, while we have done unique patola and Parsi work. But, even I am struggling with getting karigars as hand embroidery is a dying art, and we also struggle with production,” he notes.
As the evening unfolded and visitors moved through the space, pausing to feel the fabrics and study the intricate work, it became clear that for Siddhartha Daga, Bandhani is not just about design. It is about memory, labour, and the quiet hope that something made by hand will continue to be valued, worn, and passed on.