Delicacies from France carry a distinct elegance, an experience that is as much about refinement as it is about flavour. At RAEN – The Chef’s Studio, The Leela Hyderabad, this philosophy comes alive through an exclusive French fine-dining pop-up led by Michelin-starred Chef Michel, who curates a truly regal culinary journey. CE interacts with him to learn more about his journey, inspirations, and the food he creates.
Excerpts
Tell us about your journey.
My journey with food began at home in eastern France, where my father maintained his own garden. I grew up watching him carefully select the freshest ingredients, understanding their seasonality and treating them with respect. That early exposure shaped not only my interest in cooking but also my philosophy towards it.
I began my professional training at Le Crocodile, a three Michelin-starred institution in New York, where I was introduced to the discipline and precision of French gastronomy. It was there that I truly understood the rigour behind excellence in the kitchen. Over the years, I trained at some of France’s most celebrated establishments, including Hostellerie Le Phébus, Relais Bernard Loiseau, and Buerehiesel, each of which refined my craft and broadened my perspective.
I later joined Les Pléiades as Sous Chef and eventually became Head Chef, where I had the privilege of retaining a Michelin star. That phase was pivotal in shaping my culinary identity. My journey then took me to Rostov, Russia, where I expanded my horizons by launching a French gourmet restaurant, along with a bakery and wine bar.
On returning to France, I led the kitchen at La Bégude Saint Pierre, focusing on regional produce from Languedoc and Provence — an experience that earned recognition from Gault & Millau. Each step of this journey has reinforced one belief: great cooking begins with great ingredients.
What brings you to The Leela Hyderabad?
India has been an important part of my journey over the past several years, and I have always been drawn to its diversity and cultural depth. Hyderabad, in particular, has a remarkable culinary legacy that I have long wanted to experience. At The Leela Hyderabad, there is a clear commitment to creating refined, immersive experiences, which aligns closely with my own approach to dining. Collaborating with RAEN – The Chef’s Studio allows me to bring my background in French cuisine into an intimate setting, while also drawing inspiration from the local context. For me, it is about creating a meaningful exchange between cultures, ingredients, and techniques.
Tell us about the pop-up.
The cuisine I present is rooted in classical French techniques, shaped by my upbringing and experiences across different regions of France. At the same time, it is guided by a simple philosophy: to respect the ingredient and allow its true character to shine. Each dish is carefully composed to highlight natural flavours, with a focus on balance, precision, and clarity. In this setting, the menu becomes a narrative — one that reflects my journey, my influences, and my interpretation of French cuisine.
What is one signature dish from the menu?
Two dishes — one vegetarian and one non-vegetarian — truly represent my approach.
The Caramelised Cauliflower with Keerai and Pistachio, Coconut and Vanilla Sauce celebrates a humble ingredient, explored through multiple textures and paired with keerai, ghee, and roasted pistachio. It is brought together with a delicate coconut and vanilla sauce, reflecting my belief in elevating simplicity while respecting the ingredient’s natural character.
The Ghee-Poached Sea Bass with Caramelised Cauliflower, Pistachio, Coconut and Vanilla Fumet introduces refinement through technique. Gently poached in ghee, the fish is paired with a caramelised cauliflower purée, roasted pistachio, and a coconut vanilla fumet. The focus here is on balance — bringing together richness, subtle sweetness, and depth of flavour in a composed, harmonious way.
Together, these dishes express a central idea in my cooking: transforming familiar ingredients into something thoughtful, layered, and memorable.
What does food mean to you?
Over the years, I have come to understand that food is everything — it represents the soil, the land, the farmer, and the culture behind it. It goes far beyond nourishment. Food is about bringing people together, sharing moments, and creating memories that stay with you. What I find most meaningful is the transformation — taking an ingredient in its purest form and elevating it into something that tells a story. That, to me, is the essence of cooking.