Kashmiri craftsmanship has long been admired for its intricate artistry, rich heritage, and timeless appeal. Whether showcased at exhibitions or specialty stores, garments and textiles that reflect Kashmir’s culture and traditions continue to attract discerning buyers. At Shilparamam, Fee Fa Da Designers, owned by designer Aieena Qureshi and her husband Imran Ul Haque, offers an exquisite collection of handcrafted creations rooted in authentic Kashmiri traditions. CE spoke to Aieena about her journey, the art of Kani weaving, and the importance of preserving this centuries-old craft.
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Tell us about your passion for this craft.
I have been associated with this work for the past three years. Professionally, this was never my field, but it has always been my passion. I completed my Master’s in Education, but my connection to handicrafts began much earlier because my mother and aunt were deeply involved in the sector. My mother worked as a field officer and often visited various handicraft centres, and through her, I developed an early appreciation for the art. After marrying a Hyderabadi, I moved here and have been living in Hyderabad for the past 20 years. I worked as a school principal before deciding to pursue this passion. When we explored the opportunities at Shilparamam, we felt it would be the perfect place to showcase traditional Kashmiri craftsmanship.
Three years ago, we established our store here and began promoting traditional art forms, particularly Kani shawls. The Kani loom is a centuries-old weaving technique that dates back to the 15th century. It is believed that Persian influences introduced during the reign of Kashmiri rulers helped shape this art form. During the Mughal era, these exquisite shawls were often exchanged as royal gifts. Persian artisans brought their skills to Kashmir, where local craftsmen gradually adapted and perfected the technique.
Today, with technology-driven manufacturing becoming more common, traditional crafts face challenges. About eight months ago, we took a significant step by setting up an authentic Kani loom at our store and demonstrating the weaving process using genuine Pashmina.
What is Kani, and how can one distinguish an original piece from an imitation?
What you see here is authentic Pashmina Kani, crafted from the finest wool. Genuine pieces come with certification and purity tags. The weaving is done entirely on traditional looms using small wooden sticks known as ‘kanis’. The time required depends on the complexity of the design. A detailed border may take two to three months to complete, while a fully patterned Jama shawl can take anywhere from six months to several years. Some exceptionally intricate pieces may even require up to three years of work. One of our main goals is to create awareness among customers about authentic Pashmina and help them differentiate it from machine-made or imitation products available in the market.
Can you explain the design process?
Every piece begins with the creation of a design. The pattern is first plotted on graph paper, and a coding system is developed through numbering. This serves as a guide for the weavers. The design is then woven onto the fabric using coloured threads and traditional Kani sticks. Since the entire process is done by hand, it requires immense skill, patience, and precision. Once the weaving is finished, the fabric undergoes a polishing process to achieve its final refined appearance.
All our products carry a Geographical Indication (GI) tag along with a QR code that allows customers to access information about the artisan and the product’s origin. While we are known for our shawls, we also incorporate these techniques into sarees using both wool and silk threads. We continuously experiment with designs and colours, including pastel shades that are particularly popular among customers in Hyderabad.