Eka Lakhani: Weaving Indian craft into global fashion

From the world of cinema to the steps of Met Gala, celebrity stylist Eka Lakhani brings Indian artistry alive, as she reflects on her journey, Met Gala debut with Karan Johar and more with CE
Eka Lakhani
Eka Lakhani
Updated on
4 min read

A silk saree gracefully draped on Trisha Krishnan at a recent event, the royal grandeur of Ponniyin Selvan, edgy contemporary silhouettes for Ranveer Singh, rooted looks for Prithviraj Sukumaran, the effortless cool of Ok Jaanu and Rocky Aur Rani Kii Prem Kahaani, the emotional worlds of The Sky Is Pink and Sanju, and now Karan Johar’s regal Met Gala debut inspired by Raja Ravi Varma — Eka Lakhani’s work has become a visual archive of modern Indian cinema and fashion.

“It was his Met Gala debut. It was my Met Gala debut,” Eka says with a smile, adding, “Luckily for us, Manish has done the Met Gala before. We were very lucky to have him on board. But there was a very strong sense of responsibility. We wanted to make sure that the outfit was unmistakably Indian, and that it never became costumey.”

For Eka, the moment held an even deeper significance. Returning to New York, this time not as a student but as the stylist behind one of the most talked-about Indian appearances, felt ‘surreal’. She expresses, “It made me feel so proud of my journey, of my association with Karan, and of India being portrayed in such a beautiful way at the Met Gala.”

Interestingly, the creative direction emerged instinctively. Once Karan Johar’s invitation was confirmed, she recalls, “Karan instinctively suggested that we should draw inspiration from Raja Ravi Varma. I loved that idea because he was the first artist I ever studied when I started my journey as a costume designer. I’ve always been deeply inspired by his work.”

The vision instantly struck a chord with Manish Malhotra, but reimagining Raja Ravi Varma’s timeless grandeur for the modern Met Gala demanded deep research, artistic precision, and a fresh fashion lens. She highlights, “The most challenging part was identifying which paintings we wanted to draw inspiration from. The timelines were also intense. But the most exciting part was definitely the fittings day. We were all so thrilled and eager to finally see the look come alive.”

Rather than borrowing superficially from Indian art history, Eka and the team approached the look almost like a wearable interpretation of a painting. “The drape and movement came heavily from the paintings, as did the romantic mood and jewel-tone palette. We also looked at temple jewellery references, vintage Indian textiles, and the softness in the way Raja Ravi Varma portrayed royalty and femininity,” she notes.

Jewellery, though minimal, became an important finishing touch. Collaborating with Tyani, the team created vintage-inspired pieces that seamlessly complemented the mood and colour palette of the outfit. “The jewellery really helped bring the entire look together,” she adds.

For Eka, styling goes beyond spectacle. She says, “Each person comes with a different energy, comfort zone, and understanding of who they are. Before preparing any look, I spend time understanding what story they want to communicate. The best looks happen when the person truly feels like themselves in what they’re wearing.”

Her sensitivity toward storytelling perhaps stems from where her journey began. “I started my journey in the South Indian industry as a costume designer for Mani Ratnam, and I’ve learnt a lot of my art and finesse from him. Everything I do carries a little touch of where my roots in cinema came from,” she recounts.

Over the years, working with actors across industries — from Prithviraj Sukumaran and Siddharth to Bollywood stars like Akshay Kumar, Vicky Kaushal and many to the endless list — has only deepened her understanding of how fashion interacts with identity and culture. “Every industry has its own visual culture and audience relationship. With many South Indian actors, there’s often a stronger rootedness in craft, textile, and cultural identity. I completely enjoy exploring that,” she explains.

One actor who constantly pushes her creatively, she admits, is Siddharth. “He’s very experimental in his fashion approach. We’ve done lungis with blazers, mixed silhouettes, and played with contemporary takes on his South Indian roots. He’s someone who really enjoys pushing the envelope, and I love working with him because of that,” she states.

South Indian collaborations have also introduced Eka to a rich world of artisanship, as she says, “Working in the South has exposed me to incredible weaves, embroidery traditions, and artisans who deserve much more global visibility.”

If there’s one influence she keeps returning to, though, it is South Indian jewellery. “I’m obsessed with the detailing, layering, and craftsmanship. There’s such richness in the storytelling, and I always try to bring that into the larger fashion conversation whenever possible,” she enthuses.

As Indian fashion gains greater global visibility, Eka concludes saying, “Right now, my focus is on creating meaningful narratives through films, editorials, and global collaborations that bring Indian craft and storytelling into contemporary fashion conversations.”

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The New Indian Express
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