From sculpted corsets and contemporary lehengas to draped sarees, jewelled blouses and crystal capes, designer Ridhi Mehra’s latest collection SAAZ is less about preserving the past and more about giving heritage a new rhythm. As Ridhi Mehra continues to expand her presence in Hyderabad, the designer talks about SAAZ, the changing face of Indian occasion wear, evolving design philosophy, Hyderabad woman and her plans to build a more complete couture universe.
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What is the story behind SAAZ?
SAAZ is an ode to India’s rich artistic heritage and the diverse forms of expression that have shaped our cultural identity. Rather than drawing from a single craft or region, the collection takes inspiration from the larger world of Indian art, right from classical dance and music to painting, architecture and traditional craftsmanship bringing these influences together through a contemporary couture lens.
While heritage remains at the heart of SAAZ, it is not interpreted literally or through nostalgia. Traditional influences such as Pichwai, Patola, Kashida, Marodi and Chintz are reimagined through contemporary techniques, silhouettes and detailing.
What are some of the key silhouettes and design details that define SAAZ?
The design language of SAAZ is centred around movement and fluidity, with each silhouette designed to feel contemporary yet deeply rooted in Indian craftsmanship. The collection features sculpted corsets, contemporary lehengas, draped sarees, jewelled blouses, crystal capes, anarkalis and refined kurta sets, creating a versatile wardrobe that balances structure with ease. The menswear edit includes sherwanis, bundi sets, kurta sets, front-open jackets and statement dushalas, bringing the same sense of refinement and modernity to the collection. Jewellery-inspired motifs and geometric filigree add a sense of intricacy while keeping the overall aesthetic modern and elevated.
Fabric plays an integral role in bringing the collection to life. Raw silk lends structure, while metallic tissue introduces lightness and luminosity. Organza, tulle, georgette, chiffon and Banarasi silk further enhance the sense of movement and fluidity across the silhouettes.
Is there a particular ensemble from SAAZ that best captures the essence of the collection for you?
The Husn Lehenga Set in Gunmetal Gold particularly captures the heritage-meets-modernity philosophy of SAAZ. Drawing inspiration from the rich visual language of Pichwai, the ensemble reinterprets this traditional Indian art form through the use of luminous tissue and contemporary placement. The result is a look that retains the depth and intricacy of its heritage influence while feeling fresh, modern and relevant to today’s woman.
What do you think will define Indian occasion wear over the next few years?
The future of Indian occasion wear is moving away from heavily embellished, one-time dressing towards versatility, individuality and personal expression. Women today are seeking luxury that not only looks beautiful but also feels comfortable and authentically like them. Craftsmanship will continue to remain at the heart of Indian fashion, but its interpretation is becoming increasingly contemporary creating a greater dialogue between traditional and modern aesthetics. Sarees are being explored through new constructions, lehengas through unconventional silhouettes, and Indian textiles are finding unexpected applications.
How has your understanding of the Hyderabad woman changed since you established a presence here?
The Hyderabad customer has a strong connection with India’s rich traditions, while approaching occasion wear with a distinctly contemporary mindset. There is a deep appreciation for craftsmanship, fabric and finishing, with luxury increasingly being understood through quality and attention to detail rather than embellishment alone.
What is one misconception about couture that you would like to change?
Couture is often associated with heaviness, excessive embellishment and garments that can feel difficult to wear, but our approach is to challenge that perception. True luxury lies not only in surface embellishment, but also in considered construction, handwork, exceptional fabrics and meticulous attention to detail.
Future projects?
Building out the accessories category is an important next step in the brand’s evolution, with the vision of creating a more complete couture wedding wardrobe rather than focusing solely on the main outfit. We are looking at expanding into accessories that seamlessly complement Ridhi Mehra couture, including veils, kaleeras, bags, hair accessories and other handcrafted elements. Each piece will carry the same distinctive design language and meticulous attention to craftsmanship as the garments. The larger idea is to enable a bride, groom or wedding guest to create a complete, cohesive and thoughtfully considered look within the Ridhi Mehra universe, where every detail feels intentional and connected.