Think of Bihari food, and the first things that come to one’s mind are usually Litti Chokha and Champaran Mutton. But there is so much more to the cuisine than these familiar favourites. This was the experience at Beloved Bihar, a culinary pop-up at Kanak, Trident, where guest Chef Shubhra Singh, alongside Chef Ananya Khare, brought the flavours of her ancestral village, Balua Deorhi, to the table.
Talking about spread on offer, Chef Shubhra says, “The whole idea behind coming here and cooking is nostalgia. Wherever you eat, you should feel that you have had this food somewhere before. There are no great recipes or techniques that need to be complicated. It is about the familiarity of the food and the memories it brings back. I wanted to showcase Bihar beyond Litti Chokha and Champaran Mutton. My Littis are good because we make them with multigrain flour. We have used Khapli Atta, which is chakki-ground, rather than mill-made flour. It is a little difficult to work with, so we make smaller littis. Our sattu is also very fresh. It is freshly made and hand-pounded, and I got it from Patna. A lot of what I am trying to do is keep the food light, with less oil. My pulao, for instance, is very light. It is just mutton and pulao cooked together, without being greasy or having extra flavours. The quality of the rice matters a lot. I have used my homegrown Katarni rice because I want to retain those flavours.”
Our culinary journey began with Sattu Ka Paani, a traditional Bihari drink made with roasted gram flour, known as sattu. It was accompanied by Nimki, a crisp, savoury snack, along with Teesi, Pudina and Adrak chutneys. Before we could even begin, we were served steaming bowls of Makkai Ka Shorba and Gosht Ka Shorba. The Makkai Ka Shorba, with its comforting, earthy sweetness of corn, offered a gentle, warming start, while the Gosht Ka Shorba brought a deeper, meatier richness, with the flavours of the broth unfolding with every sip. Next came the much-awaited Litti Chokha platter. The whole-wheat dumplings, stuffed with roasted gram flour or sattu, were served with three varieties of Chokha — Aloo, Tomato and Baigan. The Litti had a generous touch of ghee, adding richness to the roasted exterior and complementing its earthy, savoury filling. Each Chokha carried the unmistakable aroma of mustard oil associated with Bihari cooking. The appetisers continued with Aloo Parval Chop, Bihari Chicken Seekh with a creamy sauce, and Aloo Pomfret Chop.
The main course was where the homely character of the cuisine truly came through. Ghar Wali Arhar Ki Dal brought the warmth of a traditional household preparation, with pigeon peas cooked into a comforting dal. The Masoor Dal Ki Kadhi Wadi brought together lentils, kadhi and soft dumplings. Then came Besan Ki Sabzi, Mithilanchal Rohu and Ahuna Batyer, a smoked quail preparation cooked in an earthen pot. We tried the Katarni Vegetable Pulao, made using Katarni rice, served with Kaddu Ka Raita. The breads added another layer to the experience. Dalpoorie, traditionally associated with festivals in Bihar, featured split Bengal gram wrapped in wheat flour and fried. The Satanja Roti, made using seven ancient grains, offered a different experience altogether. Together, the rice and bread provided a satisfying base for the main course.
The desserts brought the meal to a gentle close. Litchi Ki Kheer, Meethi Boondi Kheer and Halwa offered familiar Indian sweet finishes. But that was not the end. The chef surprised us with a freshly baked Thekua, making the experience a whole lot homely.