KOCHI: Fort Kochi, a place steeped in cultural heritage and colonial legacies, is also well-known for its Dhobi Ghat. Located just a stone’s throw away from Velli Ground bus stop, Dhobi Ghat or Dhobi Khana, as it is also known, reflects a cross-cultural identity which is a characteristic of old Kochi.
The history
Dhobi Khana at Fort Kochi was established by the Dutch to launder the uniforms of its army personnel. They brought members of Vannar community, whose ancestral occupation was washing clothes, from Tamil Nadu, in the early 1700s. Long after the Dutch and then the British left the country, the Dhobi Ghat still remains albeit in a new avatar.
“Our forefathers arrived here in the days of the Raj and our families have lived here for generations,” says Devadas G V, a Vannar community member and a regular at the Ghat. “This area is a part of our identity and we take every possible step to preserve our heritage.”
The Vannar Community
The Dhobi Ghat is synonymous to Vannar community, the pioneers of the trade. Most of the workers at the Ghat today are the direct descendents of the original settlers although they have welcomed non-Vannar dhobis too into their midst. Today, the Dhobi Khana is managed by the ‘Vannar Sangham’, a community-based administrative body. This collective, which in addition to looking after the Dhobi Khana, also tends to the needs of the local Vannar community.
“This entire area used to be ours,” explains Devadas gesturing towards a nearby school and a patch of open land. “We handed it over to GCDA in the 1970s and, in return, they constructed the building where we now work. All the rights to the building was handed over to the Vannar Sangham upon completion and we have managed it ever since.”
When asked about their mode of operation, K P Rajan, a non-Vannar washerman, said, “The Ghat mostly acts as a common working area. Every order is received and performed on an individual basis. Each member of the community has the freedom to set up shop at the Ghat and work according to one’s own volition. There is no contract. The only thing is that we have to do is pay a monthly fee to use this space.”
Devadas G V, another washerman, says, “When it is not raining we usually dry the clothes out in the sun. During monsoon we use something called a spinning machine. It looks like a washing machine but it can dry an entire load of wet clothes in less than 10 minutes. These machines were provided by the management and users have to pay a small fee to use the service.”
Continuous Work
Dhobi Khana functions ceaselessly throughout the year except for half a day’s leave during the local festival and couple of days off for Onam.
On the evolution of the trade over the years, K P Rajan, another dhobi say, “Much has changed. Everything from type of cloth materials, detergents, and even folding methods have changed.” “And rightly so,” retorts Devadas G V. “We need to keep up with the times.” “A lot has changed on the administrative side of things as well. Nowadays we have to sign in before we start work, keep complete records of all our transactions and book our workspace in advance. Word has it that we may even be asked to take insurance!” Devadas adds.
Staying Put
Even in this era, when the success or failure of an endeavour depends mainly on its speed and efficiency, Dhobi Khana has managed to stay put. Their customers range from star hotels to public organisation and even individual households.
“We should have faded away with time but the fact that we didn’t says a lot,” points out Shanmugham, an 88-year-old dhobi. “I’ve been here since the age of 19 and the fact that this organisation is still going strong is a testament to our unity and enduring spirit,” he adds.
