KOCHI: The holiday season is upon us! If this was not evident already from the array of lights illuminating city streets, the scents of baked goodies — with those subtle hints of spices — wafting from the ovens are an inescapable reminder. They carry the whispers of Christmas, laden with hopes of a fresh New Year.
Synonymous with the feel-good vibes, of course, is Christmas cake. Here, TNIE looks at the tradition, which has a history as rich and varied as the cake itself. The Christmas cake tradition can be traced back to ancient Rome (133-31 BC), where, during the festival of Saturnalia, people would enjoy sweet bread made with barley mash, pomegranate seeds, nuts, and raisins.
Saturnalia was derived from older farming-related rituals of midwinter and the winter solstice, especially the practice of offering gifts or sacrifices to the gods during the winter sowing season. In medieval Europe, gradually, the tradition of baking rich, fruit-filled cakes during Christmas began to take shape. This period saw the introduction of exotic spices such as nutmeg, cinnamon, and cloves, which were brought to Europe from the Far East. These spices, along with dried fruits like raisins and currants, were considered luxurious and were used sparingly, making the Christmas cake a coveted treat.
The discovery of sugar in the American colonies in the 16th century transformed the Christmas cake, making it sweeter and more popular. As the Europeans colonised new territories and embarked on expeditions, they carried their traditions, including the cherished Christmas cake. These traditions were often tweaked based on the availability of ingredients in these new lands.
Today, the Christmas cake is a beloved part of holiday celebrations worldwide, with each culture giving its own unique spin on the tradition. Whether it’s the rich and spiced British Christmas pudding, the buttery German Stollen, the airy Italian Panettone, or the light and fluffy Japanese Christmas cake, these variations are not just culinary delights — they are symbols of festivity, tradition, and the spirit of giving.
Bapu, the Father of Indian Cakes
Did you know that it was in Thalassery that the first Indian Christmas cake was baked?
The year was 1880, and Mambally Bapu had just returned from Burma to Thalassery, a quaint coastal town in Kerala. A visionary businessman, Bapu started the Royal Biscuit Factory to introduce the Malayali community to the delights of baked goods, a concept then unfamiliar in this part of the world.
Three years later, in 1883, a British planter, Murdoch Brown, walked into Bapu’s bakery with a rich plum cake from England. He requested Bapu to recreate it. Seizing the opportunity, Bapu embarked on a culinary adventure that would transcend generations.
With Brown’s brief guidance and a selection of exotic ingredients, including cocoa, dates, raisins, and French brandy, Bapu set to work. However, he was not one to merely replicate. Infusing local flavours and ingenuity, he sourced spices from the Malabar coast, used a local brew from the cashew apple, and even obtained a special baking mould from a local blacksmith.
On December 20, 1884, Bapu unveiled his masterpiece. Brown’s approval was instantaneous, declaring it one of the best cakes he had ever tasted. The cake’s popularity skyrocketed, and Bapu’s bakery thrived. This success laid the foundation for a flourishing family business, with descendants establishing renowned bakery chains across Kerala and catering to the evolving Malayali palate.
Bakery Bapu’s lineage
As we enjoy our slices of Christmas cake this holiday season, let us savour its rich heritage and cultural significance as well. This is one festive treat that bridges the gap between the past and the present, and connects people across continents and generations.
No plum in plum cake
The term ‘plum cake’ historically referred to cakes made with dried fruits, including raisins, which were once commonly referred to as ‘plums’ in pre-Victorian and Victorian England. The name ‘plum cake’ is more a nod to historical and linguistic roots; it never had anything to do with the fruit plum
Japanese Christmas Cake
Sponge cake
Egg white: 2
Pasteurized egg yolk: 2
Caster sugar: 60 g
Lemon juice: ½ tsp
Cake flour sifted: 60 g
Unsalted butter: 20 g (melted)
Milk: 1 tbsp
SYRUP
Caster sugar: 20 g
Water: 40 ml
Liqueur: 1 tbsp
TOPPING / FILLING
Heavy cream: 300g (at least 36% milk fat, chilled)
Powdered sugar: 3 tbsp
Vanilla essence: 2-3 drops
Strawberries: 12
Mint leaves: Optional
Christmas decorations: Optional
Method: Grease the cake tin. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Mix egg whites and ½ tsp lemon juice in a bowl, until foamy and doubled in size. Add sugar in batch and mix well. Whisk until the mix (meringue) is smooth and glossy. Add pasteurised egg yolks one at a time and whip for 10-15 seconds for each one. Add cake flour in batch by fold gently. Mix 20g melted butter and 1 tbsp milk in a bowl. Add 2 tbsp of the sponge batter and whisk to temper. Pour the tempered mixture into the cake batter and fold.
Then, pour the mix into the cake tin. Place into the oven for 20-30 minutes, cook till its golden brown. Remove and leave to cool for 1 hour. Take 20g caster sugar, 40 ml water and 1 tbsp of liqueur on a pan. Boil it over a medium heat while stirring continuously. As it starts bubbling, stop stirring and boil for 1 minute. Cut off the top of the cool cake and then cut horizontally. Brush the top of each half with syrup and save leftovers. In a chilled steel bowl, placed on an ice bath, pour in 300g heavy cream, 3tbsp powdered sugar and 2-3 drops vanilla essence.
Whisk until the cream becomes spreadable. Spread 2-3 spoonfuls of whipped cream on each sponge. Arrange the strawberries and sandwich them between two layers of cream. Brush leftover syrup on the top of the cake. Spread 4-5 scoops of whipped cream on top. Whip the cream to make it thicker and add it to the top of the sponge cake. Place some in a piping bag and keep in the fridge. Spread the rest of the cream evenly on the sides of the assembled cake. Finish the cake by piping swirls around the edge and placing the strawberries in the center. Decorate with mint leaves and any Christmas decorations.
Classic Christmas pudding
Blanched almonds: 50g
Apples: 2
Candied peel: 200g
Nutmeg: 1
Raisins: 1kg
Plain flour: 140g
Fresh breadcrumbs: 100g
Unrefined brown sugar: 100g
Large eggs: 3
Brandy or cognac: 2 tbsp (extra to light the pudding)
Butter: 250g
For the brandy & ginger butter
Unsalted butter, softened: 175g
Orange zest: Half an orange
Icing sugar: 5 tbsp
Brandy or cognac: 4 tbsp
Ginger: 2 pieces
Method: Chop the almonds, apples, candied peel. Grate three quarters of the nutmeg. Mix almonds, apples, candied peel, nutmeg, raisins, flour, breadcrumbs, unrefined sugar, eggs and 2 tbsp brandy or cognac in a bowl. Grate a quarter of butter into the bowl in batches, mixing everything together in between. Repeat until all the butter is grated, then stir for 3-4 mins. Generously butter two bowls and put a circle of baking parchment in the bottom. Add the pudding mixture. Cover with a double layer of baking parchment, with space for expansion.
Tie with string and trim excess paper. Cover the entire bowl so water doesn’t get in. In a large pan take water to boil. Put the bowl in. Boil or steam the puddings for 8 hrs, topping up with water as necessary. Remove from the pan and leave to cool overnight. When cold, remove the wrappings and re-wrap again. Store in a cool, dry place until Christmas.
To make the brandy butter, put butter, orange zest and icing sugar in a bowl and mix. Beat in the brandy or cognac and chopped stem ginger. Put it in the fridge to set. The butter will keep for a week in the fridge, or it can be frozen for up to six weeks. On Christmas Day, boil the pudding for 1 hr. Warm 3-4 tbsp brandy in a small pan, pour it over the pudding and set light to it and serve.
German stollen
For the dough
1 cup lukewarm whole milk
3 teaspoons active dry yeast
1/2 cup granulated sugar
4 cups all-purpose flour
1 large egg
2 large egg yolks
3/4 cup unsalted butter
2 teaspoons vanilla extrac
Zest of one lemon
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
3/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
8 ounces almond paste
For the Fruits & Nuts:
9 ounces raisins
3 ounces candied lemon peel
3 ounces candied orange peel
1/3 cup quality dark rum
1 stick unsalted butter
Powdered sugar for dusting
Method: Take raisins, candied peels and almonds in a bowl and add the rum. Stir well and set aside. Mix yeast and 2 tbsp sugar into lukewarm milk. Let sit in a warm place for 10-15 minutes. Mix the flour, remaining sugar, egg, egg yolks, butter, vanilla extract, lemon zest, salt, cardamom, mace and cinnamon in a bowl. Add yeast mixture. Stir until it comes together.
Knead the dough for 7-8 minutes. Cover and place it in a warm place for 1-2 hours. Add fruit mix into the dough. Knead well. Cut it into equal halves. Roll each into an oval shape of 1-inch thickness. Roll marzipan and place them in the middle of the dough. Fold it. Place the dough on a lined baking sheet, cover loosely and rest in a warm place until puffy. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F and bake it for 30-40 minutes. Let it sit for 5 minutes, and poke holes all over. Generously brush with melted butter. Sprinkle generous amounts of powdered sugar. Let it cool.