KOCHI: For long, discussions on the city’s heritage have mostly gravitated towards Fort Kochi and Mattancherry. And it wouldn’t be wrong to say other places of historical significance have been overlooked. A prime example is Tripunithura.
To remedy this, local historian Balagopal Varma, a techie by profession, had introduced a ‘heritage walk’ in the area some years ago. But the pandemic forced a hiatus.
Last weekend, he restarted the much-lauded initiative. TNIE joined him and several other history buffs to appreciate the remnants of a bygone era.
“Tripunithura, or Kottakkakom, was once exclusive to the Cochin royal family. There were about 50 kovilakams here — individual stately bungalows that comprised several structures: malika (where the prince/princess stayed), the bungalow itself (guest house); naalukettu (where the servants stayed) and padipura (the guards’ station),” Balagopal explained.
The walk began from the historian’s own kovilakam. From there, we navigated our way to the Sree Poornathrayeesa Temple – said to be the “heart” of Tripunithura.
A wide arterial road that began here stretched all the way to the Hill Palace — once the seat of the Maharaja. On the way, it passed Statue Junction, now a buzzing marketplace, and the Manimalika (clock tower), which was built with the help of Dutch builders 150 years ago.
“Manimalika was the Lulu Mall of the time. People from all over flocked to see it. At the mark of every hour, a mechanical toy soldier sprang out to offer a salute,” said Balagopal. Interestingly, until 1950s, Tripunithura kept time using a sundial.
Once the idea of Cochin (Kochi) centred, both physically and metaphorically, around Sree Poornathrayeesa Temple. Unlike elsewhere, Balagopal explained, the diety of Lord Vishnu is in a seated position here — “in a serene, yet regal lalitasana pose”. “He is considered the god of fertility,” he added.
Later, we made our way to the Thattumalika, the gallery from where the maharajas watched proceedings in the temple. Next stops were at the Amma Thampuran Kovilakam, the Bungalow Palace — two of the oldest structures in Tripunithura — and the Kalikotta Palace.
The latter was a school for the royal heirs. “Now, it is a performance venue, also open to the public. What is unique about this building is its Dutch architecture — sash windows and arched hallways,” Balagopal highlighted.
Lakshmi Thoppu Palace and Raj Bhavan Palace were next, followed by Thekke Kovilakam Naalukettu, Edoop Palace and Bhadralayam — residential buildings housing members of the royal family. The final stop was at the century-old iron bridge. “The canal here formed the western border of Kottakkakom. Before the iron bridge, in its place stood a wooden drawbridge. It was pulled up during evening hours to limit entry,” Balagopal added.
Of course, the walk only covered a fragment of Tripunithura’s long and cherished history. But it was a much-needed endeavour to reconnect with the land.