KOCHI: "What is there on top,” asked a woman to ICR Prasad, a retired assistant engineer at the Directorate of Lighthouses and Light Ships. “You could see paradise a little up close,” he told her.
She was pointing to the towering structure overlooking the Arabian Sea in Ponnanni. Atop, time stops briefly as one gazes into the vast sea. The structure had remained there for long, a lighthouse guiding ships and seafarers lost in mid-seas to hearth and home.
This is one among the 18 mainland lighthouses (17 in Kerala and one in Mahe) in the state, built over various periods since the 19th century as a marker of the trade link Kerala had with the rest of the world.
The charm of the 360-degree view from atop the lighthouse gives a ‘top-of-the-world’ feel, exclaims Prasad. “There may be taller buildings but they can never match when it comes to the feel or the view. And this is why people throng to be part of this charm,” he smiles.
World over, lighthouse tourism is something that attracts generations. Being settlers, the Americans wanted the next of their line to see the vast space through which their forefathers entered. The lighthouses were objects that guided their maritime journeys. Hence, there is tradition and pride in lineage involved with the lighthouses there. “Even in Kerala, I have seen families who had migrated to Australia bringing their children on an outing to Thangassery Lighthouse and they explain how their forefathers were associated with the seas,” he says.
Probably to bank in on such sentiments and on the awe that people have for lighthouses, the Union government has etched larger plans as part of the Maritime India Vision 2030.
The core plan is to increase footfalls in lighthouses to more than 17 lakh, which is the figure touted by the government — a sharp increase from the 3.5 lakh before 2014.
The government claims it has developed 75 of the 203 lighthouses in the country as tourist attractions and plans to develop more. Of these, 11 are in Kerala, says Anil Antony, state director of Lighthouses and Lightships.
“We plan to reach out to people and explain the relevance of lighthouses. Till now, ours have not been an interactive department but there is a need to inform people about the history and cultural significance of lighthouses as well as the way they have now transformed technically as per the needs of the times,” he explains.
The 11 lighthouses selected for the project are Vizhinjam, Anjuthengu, Valiazhikkal, Thangassery, Alleppy (the oldest working tower in the state), Vypin in Kochi, Azhikode, Kannur, Chettuva, Ponnani, and Kadalur point (Thikkoti).
The lighthouses were identified for the tourism potential of the places where they are situated. With Vizhinjam being one of the hubs of international tourism activity, the stakeholder meeting recently discussed ways to popularise the lighthouse as one of the main attractions of the package.
“The lighthouse is situated on a hillock overlooking the sea from the three sides. So, it offers almost a 270-degree view of the sea and its environs. Also, it is situated at a height of 57 metres above sea level, which makes the view even more alluring,” says navigational assistant V Susheendran, stationed at Vizhinjam lighthouse.
The structure also has a lift to get to the top. There are eateries and little shops sprinkled around it. “It is also close to Kovalam and Vizhinjam, increasing its tourism potential,” says Susheendran.
But in some places such as Thikkoti lighthouse, which is in a remote place between Kozhikode and Kannur, accessibility is an issue. “It is away from the beach. Yet, its historical relevance cannot be disputed. On one side is the Kappad beach where Vasco da Gama landed, on the other is Iringal Bay, called the playground of Kunhali Marakkar. We can also view the ‘Vellayamkallu’ immortalised by M Mukundan in Mayyazhippuzhayude Theerangalil. It is also said to be where pirates were killed and bears the name ‘sacrifice rock’,” says Prasad, who has written extensively on lighthouses, including the one in Thikkoti.
The space around the Thikkoti lighthouse adds to its scope for development — the facility stands on 26 acres of land. “In such spots, we can set up cottages so visitors can stay back. We can develop them as facilities on PPP mode,” says Susheendran.
“Even without these efforts, we get over 13,000 footfalls a month, especially during peak seasons at places like Vizhinjam. If the new plan is executed well, this can be well channelised and doubled,” officials say.
Remnants of a bygone era
“Each lighthouse is a story,” says Prasad. Take for example the Vizhinjam lighthouse. “It evolved from a small red beacon, perched on the Valiyathura pier. From 1921, when it was constructed, it evolved into its current status in 1961 as a prominent lighthouse in the region. The story of Anchengo lighthouse is even older.”
So while opening up lighthouses to the public, we could narrate their evolution as well as research their past, beams Prasad.
When stationed at Alleppy lighthouse, he and his team had put together a museum that displays the historical relevance of the lighthouse. The space was once used to store explosives to protect the port.
“Such beautiful stories come to light as we study each lighthouse. And they make for excellent story-telling,” Prasad smiles.
Com centres
Originally envisioned as guiding lights to sea fearers, lighthouses soon emerged as communication hubs. Fully equipped, thanks to technological advances, they provide navigational aides to ships and also serve as feeders for the Coast Guard and the Navy. With the development of the Vizhinjam port, their role would become significant, say the lighthouse directorate officials.
“These are monumental proofs of how navigation evolved over the centuries. And we can explain to visitors, especially children, the history of lighthouses and their technological advancements,” says Anil Antony, state director of Lighthouses and Lightships. However, a few officials add that there should be a good balance between tourism and security for the communication systems.