Ramamangalam: Kerala village where a river, Ramayana and ragas converge

As ‘Ramayana’ fervour sweeps across India, TNIE zooms in on a village in Ernakulam that is said to have ‘hosted’ Lord Rama and Sita Devi during their ‘vanavas’
Paddy fields in Ramamangalam
Paddy fields in Ramamangalam
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KOCHI: Located along the winding Muvattupuzha River, Ramamangalam is a quaint village steeped in lore and heritage. And it has a tale of its own to add to the online debate over Jatayu’s final resting place.

With the film ‘Ramayana: Part 1’ drawing packed houses, the epic is back in conversation. It has reopened discussions on history, myth and legend, and also sent people looking for traces of the story in their own backyards.

Ramamangalam is one such spot in Ernakulam district. It is believed that Lord Rama and Sita Devi stayed here for some days during their exile. According to legend, the region was a forest and this area came to be known as Sriramamangalam.

“This is part of folklore,” says Arun Paul, founder of Ave Stella Maris College here and a resident of the village.

“The story goes on to say that Rama killed Maricha, who came disguised as a golden deer, in the woods here. Maricha’s body got split — the upper part of his body fell at a place which is now called Memury (‘mel’ means upper) and the bottom half fell in Kizhumuri (‘kizh’ means lower). These are locations in Ramamangalam.”

Arun, however, clarifies that such legends have not been historically verified. Across India, he adds, one can find numerous places that trace their names to ‘Ramayana’ and ‘Mahabharata’.

However, he points out that with ‘Ramayana’ fervour gripping the nation, Ramamangalam could receive a well-deserved boost as a tourism destination.

Muvattupuzha river
Muvattupuzha river

Arun highlights the Nalambalam darshanam circuit, which involves visiting the temples of Rama and his three brothers on the same day. Three temples in the circuit — Sri Ramaswami Temple at Mamalassery, Bharathapilly Temple at Memury and Nedungattu Shatrugna Swami Temple at Mamalassery — are situated in the Ramamangalam panchayat.

The fourth, Lakshmanaswami Temple, is at Mulakkulam, just a few kilometres away from here. Ramamangalam is also home to the famous Perumthrikkovil dedicated to Lord Narasimha. It is said to have been constructed during the reign of Cheraman Perumal centuries ago.

“Ramamangalam brims with heritage. Moreover, it is an agrarian village, where the Muvattupuzha River plays a lifeline as well as a natural artist. The tourism potential is huge,” he smiles.

Hills, viewpoints, paddy fields, green expanses, streams that zigzag through the village… It’s a beautiful getaway, indeed.

Notably, the tourism club of Ave Stella Maris College, after tying up with a tour operator in Kochi, had initiated efforts to make Ramamangalam a village tourism hub.

“We connected the farming practices, communities practising traditional crafts like pottery, the temples and churches, country boat operators, and more,” says Arun. “Now, we have handed over the project to the panchayat.”

That’s not it. Ramamangalam is also widely known as Shatkala Govinda Gramam. This is the birthplace of Carnatic legend Shatkala Govinda Marar.

Sculpture of Shatkala Govinda Marar
Sculpture of Shatkala Govinda Marar

“He was born to a family associated with the Ramamangalam Perumthrikkovil temple. From childhood, he learnt Sopana Sangeetham and percussion instruments such as idakka,” says Raveendran Nair, assistant secretary of the Shatkala Govinda Marar Smaraka Kala Samithi.

Marar, a roving musician, once went to Travancore to meet Swathi Thirunal. “Listening to him play the tamburu and sing, the monarch gave him the title ‘Shatkala’ — an artist who can sing pallavi across six degrees of geometric speed,” says Raveendran.

“Next, Marar set out to meet Tyagaraja Swamikal. And apparently, hearing Marar sing, Swamikal asked his disciples to sing ‘Endaro Mahanubhavulu’ in his tribute.”

Currently, the Kala Samithi centre trains over 200 students in several art forms, including music, dance and percussion. The institution houses a large statue of Marar inside a room where peace is all one will find.

The centre has emerged as a cultural tourism destination with its full-fledged art programmes and annual two-day Sangeetholsavam, held every second weekend of November.

“This year’s music fest will start on Saturday,” informs Samithi secretary K Jayachandran Nair.

“The Kerala Sangeetha Nataka Akademi has been organising this fest for over two decades.”

Mar Michael Orthodox Syrian Church, Mammalassery
Mar Michael Orthodox Syrian Church, Mammalassery

Panchayat president Jessy Raju notes that the historic temples, churches, and the Kodikuthimala lend Ramamangalam a huge tourism potential.

“Kodikuthimala is one of the tallest peaks in Ernakulam district. British surveyors planted a flagpost on top of the hill. That’s how the hill got the name (‘kodi’ means flag). One can see vestiges of the structure,” she says.

Another heritage structure is the St Jacob’s Knanaya Syrian Valiyapally. “It is believed that the original structure was constructed in 1035 CE,” says Jessy. “People of all faiths congregate here during the annual fest.”

Right now, the panchayat is spearheading the village tourism project. “We have submitted a proposal to the tourism department,” Jessy explains.

“Proposals include waterfront parks, boating, reconstruction of the hanging bridge of Thammanimattam, which was destroyed in the 2018 deluge, and a cultural circuit covering temples, churches, and ancient murals in the region.”

That does sound like a plan. It is perhaps time to wake this sleepy farming hamlet up.

More to explore

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  • Koorumala Point

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  • Shoolam Waterfall

    This quiet waterfall flows through the edges of Shoolam hills near Ramamangalam. It offers adrenaline rush to adventure travellers.

  • Donkey Farm

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  • Kadamattom Church

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