THIRUVANANTHAPURAM: The day rides to the mountains and forests of Western Ghats bordering the capital are exotic -- the hills are blue-tinted, reminiscent of their naive mysticism and the mist playing coy and subtle as it teases feelings and vision.
The night stays here too are surreal. Especially, when mild tropical showers patter on the thatched roofs of most of the stay facilities arranged as part of eco-tourism initiatives . Some added entertainment gets sneaked in with the symphony of the rain, accentuating both the sound of the night pregnant with silence and the voice of the beings that speak after dusk. Can anyone ask for more from the world than to exist in such an environment?
But when this rain gets stronger, all these are out of bounds for nature lovers. “I love such locales more than the ones by the plain where fun has a different meaning. To be in the lap of nature is what I crave for,” Shubha Gopal says, on why she chooses spots that the state has termed ‘ecotourism’ hotspots. When torrential rain, red or orange alerts, and warnings of mishaps cloud the air during monsoon, these locales close their gates to tourism. This year, too, it has not been any different.
With the recent spell in May picking up pace and strength, the verdant spots that line the boundaries of the district with the majestic Western Ghats as walls have all brought out their ‘No Entry’ boards. Such a clutch of spots in Thiruvananthapuram are being kept by the forest department and the Kerala Forest Development Corporation and offer night stay facilities, trekking, and activities such as boating, etc. to the visitors. Summer is the time when these places get maximum visitors, with educational institutions closed, but as June approaches, rain pulls down the shutters to these places. This time, the showers came in early -- in May -- with a week more to go for the academic year to start.
Some of the places in and around Thiruvananthapuram that are frequented by the vacation crowd and rain lovers, and which have been shut for the season are:
Ponmudi: The hillspot bordering Thiruvananthapuram in the Western Ghats is a haven for nature enthusiasts and those on short trips, who usually throng the place for breathtaking downhill views and misty mountains as far as eyes can see.
The drive through hairpins stretching up to the hilltop is adventurous, and hence is a biker’s favourite as well.
This season, over 500 to 1,000 tourists used to visit the hill station on an average, says Sreekumaran Nair, guide, Ponmudi Ecotourism.
“But from May 25, we turned back the people who were on their way towards Ponmudi from the Kallar checkpost itself. The path becomes treacherous and tricky during rain with heavy chances for land and rock slips, and trees that may get uprooted and fall on the moving vehicles.
On May 26, the regular bus service from Ponmudi was stalled as trees fell on the road in the torrential rain since Sunday morning accompanied by high-speed wind. The Fire and Rescue Services personnel had to be called to remove the debris,” he says.
The area is prone to landslips and such measures to close it down are taken during the rainy season to prevent any mishaps. “No major accident has occurred because of measures such as these during monsoon,” Sreekumaran Nair says.
Once the rain threats come down, travellers will be allowed to enjoy the drizzle-drenched hillspot in its pristine look. Till then, Ponmudi is in solitude, enjoying getting drenched.
Kallar: The base point of Ponmudi is known for the scenic Kallar chirping its way, as it winds through rocks and small boulders. A hotspot of picnickers, many throng here for trekking, angling and bird watching. Notable are the trails to Meenmutty waterfalls and Varayadumotta that apparently is also one of the toughest treks in the Western Ghats region.
“Even otherwise, most of our programmes are centred around the Ponmudi sector. Varayadumotta trek, the Chola trek, etc. have been stopped after the government issued the warning. As long as it’s red or orange alert here, we cannot risk any adventure or tourist activity,” says Tomy John, whose ‘AMAS’ organises frequent treks in the Western Ghats for nature and adventure seekers.
Neyyar: The scenic Neyyar sanctuary and its surroundings has remained Thiruvananthapuram’s exotic favourite for decades. Eco-tourism initiatives have refurbished the place for tourist activities, offering night stay facilities, boating in Neyyar river, and guided trekking into the forest. This season, in April alone, a total of 3,025 tourists, both local and foreign, have visited the place. On May 24, when torrential rain hit the district, Neyyar too chose to not allow tourists. The temporary prohibition was lifted on Wednesday, with the sky clearing, opening up the prospects of a good ride through the waters on a boat.
The trekking jaunts will have to wait, with the threat of sudden rain still looming large that could strand trekkers in deep forests. “There were several enquiries however. We denied all, and turned back those who came on Tuesday,” says Ratheesh B, ecotourism operator at Neyyar. “The moment the rain regains strength, we will again close the place for tourists,” he says.
Vazhvanthol waterfalls: En route to Bonacaud from Vithura, this is a place that is a showstopper for most who romance the forests and its alluring pathways. To reach these waterfalls, made by the Thondayar river coming from Bonacaud and racing to drain into Peppara, the trek is through trails in the wood lined by the river course. It is well-guided of course, with the Kani tribespeople mostly acting as forest guides taking groups of five to and from from the checkpost to the waterfalls.
“We have stopped it for the past five days. Water level is also high and we do not want to risk any accidents. Otherwise, about 300 people per day used to come here during the summer break season. Even otherwise, we get around 150 to 200 visitors who come to enjoy the trek and to soak in the forest waters. But after the local administration and the forest department decided to put tourism on hold, we have been turning people back,” says Shibu G V, deputy range officer, Thodayar section.
Mankayam: The place in Nedumangad taluk in the district gets its name from the Mankayam river, a tributary of Chittar, which tumbles down to feed two of the most serene waterfalls in the region -- the Kalakayam and the Kurisadi. The forest stretch along the Mankayam river from Mankayam to Kalakayam is quite a swathe of verdant richness. The Kurisadi waterfall is more amenable, making activities like camping, etc, possible in its surroundings. Local guides help people reach the place through treks, which of late, falls in the domain of Ponmudi ecotourism nearby.
A biodiversity hotspot, the place is being managed by the forest department for its ecotourism potential. There are facilities for stay, for picnicking and for bathing in the waterfalls.
This too has been closed for the public since rains set in this season. “Till then, we were getting about 300 visitors per day. During off-vacation times too, we get around 150 visitors per weekend. We stopped the activities here now because the water flow is very strong and there could be accidents,” said Melvin Jose, beat forest officer.
Arippa: Arippa is all life with the woods packed with cascading streams, rich flora and fauna, and the undulating terrain. Located on the edge of Thiruvananthapuram-Shenkottai state highway, the attraction here is the Myristica swamp and the stretches filled with throbbing birdlife. Stay facilities are arranged here by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation, which manages ecotourism here.
“Arippa has not closed down due to the rain because we aren’t affected, as this region is within the plains of the Forest Training College. But yes, trekking into the forests has been stopped. We also did not have guests this weekend. The rain deterred them. Till last week, we used to get visitors,” says Rahul G R, manager of KFDC’s Arippa facility.
Despite the tourist locales shutting up partly or fully, there are several rain-lovers who are gearing up to hit Koonichimala, which they say is the best place to vibe with nature during the rain.
“It’s exhilarating. As the rain that drums the leaves on the trees while we walk half-soaked in rain through the mushy trail, we feel a different kind of freedom. One that sets us in tune with nature’s own music. I would do anything to feel it over and over again. But yes, red alert and orange alert will not let us travel. Except for those times, I will always hit that trail,” says Ajaykumar G, an avid trekker, who wrestles with codes and algorithms for a living at Technopark.