Kappa Calling

On Tapioca Day (June 28), celebrate the humble root that was once introduced as a famine crop in Kerala and is an indispensable ingredient in kitchens across the world
Kappa Calling
Updated on
5 min read

From the spicy deliciousness of ‘kappa ularthiyathu’ to sweet, trendy boba, tapioca has established itself across cultures and generations, unrecognisable like a true chameleon. Though it has been adapted into different cultural dishes and has international origins, tapioca has a very special relationship with Kerala. Known by many names such as ‘kappa’, ‘kollikizhangu’ and ‘maracheeni’, tapioca has been consumed by Keralites at every meal of the day, serving as breakfast, lunch, dinner and even as a tea-time snack.

Thinly sliced tapioca chips satisfy rainy-day cravings, while boiled tapioca or ‘kappa puzhukku’ with ‘ulli chammanthi’ remains a staple across Malayali households. Tapioca starch is obtained from cassava, a root vegetable native to South America. It originated in the North and Northeast regions of Brazil and gained popularity in Kerala after Vaishakam Thirunal, the ruler of Travancore, promoted it in the 1880s as an alternative to rice during a famine. Since then, tapioca has become deeply woven into Kerala’s food culture through dishes such as kappa biriyani, kappa with fish curry, kappa with beef curry, tapioca chips and kappa puzhukku. Across India, it is also used to prepare dishes like sabudana vada and sabudana khichdi, while internationally it appears in Vietnamese dessert and dumpling recipes, and the Brazilian dessert sagu.

Beyond its versatility, tapioca has also become an important ingredient in gluten-free cooking. Since tapioca starch comes from cassava rather than cereal grains, it is naturally gluten-free and is widely used as a substitute for wheat flour in recipes for people with celiac disease or gluten sensitivity. It lends chewiness and elasticity to baked goods while acting as a neutral-tasting thickener in sauces, desserts and fillings.

As June 28 is celebrated as Tapioca Day in some parts around the world, TNIE curates a list of recipes you can try at home.

Recipes

Cassava Cake

Ingredients

Grated cassava: 2 cups
Grated coconut: 1 cup
Brown sugar: 1 cup
Melted butter: ½ cup
Eggs: 2
Vanilla extract: 1 tsp
Ground cinnamon: 1 tsp
Grated nutmeg: ¼ tsp
Baking powder: 1 tsp
A pinch of salt

Method

Preheat the oven to 180°C and grease a baking tin. In a large bowl, combine the grated cassava, coconut, brown sugar, melted butter, eggs and vanilla extract. Add the cinnamon, nutmeg, baking powder and salt, then mix until everything is well combined. Pour the batter into the prepared tin and bake for 45-60 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Allow the cake to cool slightly before slicing and serving.

Tapioca Pudding

Ingredients

Tapioca pearls: ½ cup small or medium
Sugar: ¾ cup
Milk: 3½-4 cups
Vanilla extract: 1 tsp
Salt: ¼ tsp
Eggs: 2
Fresh fruit, cereal or other toppings of choice

Method:

Combine the milk, tapioca pearls, sugar and salt in a saucepan and cook over low heat for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs and gradually add spoonfuls of the hot tapioca mixture while whisking continuously to temper them. Pour the tempered eggs back into the saucepan and cook over low heat for another 2-5 minutes, whisking constantly until the pudding thickens slightly. Stir in the vanilla extract, then transfer the pudding to a serving bowl and cover the surface with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming. Chill for at least two hours before serving, or enjoy it warm with your favourite toppings.

Kappa Biriyani

Ingredients

For the tapioca and meat

Tapioca: 1kg
Chicken or meat of choice: 1 kg
Onions: 2 (chopped)
Garlic cloves: 12
Ginger: 1 inch (chopped)
Green chilli: 1
Handful of curry leaves
Vinegar: 1 tsp
Coconut oil: 2 tbsp
Salt to taste

For the masala
Chilli powder: 2 tbsp
Coriander powder: 2 tbsp
Garam masala: 1 tsp
Turmeric powder: ½ tsp
For the roasted coconut mix
Grated coconut: 1 cup

Fennel seeds: 1 tsp
Chilli powder: 1 tsp
Coriander powder: 1 tsp
Garam masala: ½ tsp
Turmeric powder: ¼ tsp

Method:

Peel, chop and cook the tapioca with salt until soft. Mash it well and keep aside. Heat coconut oil in a pressure cooker and sauté the garlic, followed by the ginger, onions and curry leaves until softened. Add the first batch of masala powders and cook briefly before adding the cleaned chicken or meat, along with salt and vinegar. Pressure cook until the meat is tender. Meanwhile, roast the grated coconut, fennel seeds and the remaining masala powders until aromatic. Allow the mixture to cool slightly before grinding it into a coarse paste. Add the mashed tapioca to the cooked meat, mix well, then stir in the roasted coconut masala. Combine everything thoroughly and serve hot.

Brazilian Tapioca Crepes

Ingredients

Hydrated tapioca starch: 2 cups
A pinch of salt
For the filling
Grated mozzarella
Butter
Fresh coconut and condensed milk
Chocolate spread
Ham and cheese or strawberries and bananas

Method:

Sieve the hydrated tapioca starch into a bowl and mix in the salt. Heat a non-stick pan over medium heat without adding oil. Spread a thin, even layer of the tapioca starch over the pan and cook for about a minute until it binds together into a crepe. Flip gently if required, add the filling of your choice to one half, fold the crepe over and cook for another minute until the filling is heated through. Serve immediately while warm.

Brazilian Cheese Bread

Parmesan or a mix of Parmesan and mozzarella: 1½ cups grated 

Method:

Preheat the oven to 180°C and grease a mini muffin tray or baking tray. Heat the milk, oil and salt in a saucepan until it just begins to simmer. Pour the hot mixture over the tapioca flour and mix well. Allow it to cool slightly before adding the eggs one at a time. Fold in the grated cheese and mix until a smooth, sticky dough forms. Spoon the batter into the prepared tray, filling each mould about three-quarters full. Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the cheese breads are puffed and lightly golden. Serve warm.

Sagu de Vinho

Ingredients

Tapioca pearls: 1 cup
Red wine (or grape juice): 4 cups
Water: 2 cups
Sugar: ¾ cup
Cinnamon: 1 stick
Cloves: 3-4

Method:

Cook the tapioca pearls in boiling water until they become almost translucent. Drain and rinse under cold water. In a saucepan, combine the red wine, water, sugar, cinnamon stick and cloves, and bring to a gentle simmer. Add the cooked tapioca pearls and cook for another 20-30 minutes until the pearls are fully translucent and the syrup thickens slightly. Remove the whole spices, allow the dessert to cool and refrigerate before serving. It is traditionally enjoyed chilled with vanilla custard or whipped cream.

This story was reported by Niveditha Sreejith for TNIE - Kerala. 

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