Missionary zeal is a laudable quality for a restaurateur in an universe that is exploding with new possibilities. Vikas Arora, ED of a hospitality chain that runs Oriental Bloom, originally at Ansal Plaza and now relocated to a strip mall in Gurgaon, has that in dollops. He is on a self-professed mission to convert that section of Delhi’s restaurant-hoppers who can't imagine an evening without Chinjabi ‘snakes’ or deep ‘fired’ fish dunked in besan—into gorging dim sums stuffed with lotus stems and seafood, wrapped in myriad shapes and made with different flours—to accompany their Patiala. His success can be judged by the footfall in his restaurant on any evening, with a small crowd always around the teppanyaki counter gasping in exhilaration, as the chef expertly tosses fish fillets and butterflied prawns accompanied by sizzles and hisses.
I start with a mushroom Xiao Long Bao (steamed soupy dumpling) and find the wrap a tad too thick and undercooked. The Chicken Kothey are ordinary, while the Prawn Har Gow is hardly translucent. However, the Rainbow Prawn Dumplings, whose wrapper is divided into three coloured stripes look pretty and taste okay. I proceed to Chicken Satay, which is redeemingly crisp while not being stringy.
Underwhelmed by the appetisers, I proceed to the main course and order a Teppanyaki of Chicken in Chilli-Garlic Sauce. The supreme is nicely charred on the outside and marinated inside. Satisfied, I ask for the barbeque spare ribs of pork. The ribs are succulent, but the barbecue sauce, with a tomato ketchup base, is overpowering. I prefer the lemon butter sauce that accompanies the Teppanyaki of River Sole—it adds flavour and texture to Delhi's bland fish of choice. I choose a Nasi Goreng as the carb to go with the entrées, and it hits the spot.
Already feeling quite overloaded, I try to avoid dessert, but faced with Death by Chocolate, I take a bite. It's oozing with chocolatey goodness, and helps smooth over the rough edges the evening had to offer. On my way out, I'm left with the philosophical realisation—change is good, but only in small quantities. I guess, Mr Arora has actually found zen—the right balance between proselytising authenticity, cultural reality and economic success.
