Joseph François Dupleix, the ill-fated French governor-general of India, had little to do with Delhi. Except for the road that is named after him. Dupleix believed in France, in Equality, Liberty and Coq au vin but, unfortunately, oversaw the end of French imperial dreams in India.
His Indian dreams now largely live on in Pondicherry’s French Quarters, where colonial architecture plays host in the form of chic hotels and restaurants that still serve a mean bouillabaisse. For some mysterious reason, the French always serve Johnny Walker Red Label, even in tony Parisian homes.
Johnny Red accompanies a truffle omelette or tarte au pistou like a truck racing a Bentley. No wonder that the dining classes of the capital avoid French food; being Black and Gold Labelists, they get put off too at the hors d’ouevre stage itself.
Delhi’s European restaurants, be it Ritu Dalmia’s Diva, Travertino at the Oberoi or La Piazaa at the Hyatt are largely Pisa-leaning. French food, with butter, butter, butter, never really caught on here. Ramola Bachchan, once known as Amitabh Bachchan’s sister-in law, did open a European fine dining restaurant named Manre in the capital.
But the food was bad, Ramola’s French worse—and it got a quiet funeral.
Now, the Imperial Hotel, which puts on a colonial air quite successfully with elegant white columns, graceful arches and Daniell prints, is having a continental epiphany, called ‘Nostalgia’, at the allday dining multi-cuisine restaurant, 1911 Brasserie.
Targeting couples, it’s about retro food, if such a thing exists—with menus that were part of the unhurried Europe a fine dining experience in the middle years of the 20th century. The Vegetable Terrine with Goat Cheese is an excellent starter for vegetarians.
I would recommend the Asparagus with Hollandaise as an alternative vegetarian starter. Salad Lyonnaise is exotic, with bacon, croutons and a softly poached egg with Dijon mustard. The Lobster Bisque that follows is excellent, though a trifle creamier than necessary.
You can start the main course with an Eggplant Spinach Routeau (lots of Popeye and cheese) or Lamb Printanier—braised lamb in red wine.
Those who wish to put a little fire in their belly are recommended a tableside flambé—but the Panfried Goose Liver Tranche needs less cherries; the liver is a tad flabby.
The Lobster Thermidor is sizeable and sumptuous. The Himalayan Trout Amandine gives the Indian touch with slivered almonds. Scottish Smoked Salmon, Ratatouille, Traditional Roast Spring chicken, Traditional Pepper Steak, French Duck breast “a L’orange” are all part of the retro experience, meant to evoke romance amid dim lighting, tickled ivories (and tastebuds), with the Imperial’s fabled wine list.
Don’t forget dessert—French lemon tart, souffle parfait Grand Marnier and, of course, the Crepe Suzette which incidentally, was too generously bathed in cognac.
French to a fault. Mais oui!
1911 Brasserie , The Imperial, New Delhi.
Timings: 7 pm- 11.45 pm Meal for a couple: Rs 8,000 + taxes