Two friends discuss growing up in the shade of the Big Temple: S Thiyagaraja Sarma, former head of department of English, AVVM Sri Pushpam College, Poondi, and senior prince S Babaji Rajah Bhonsle Chattrapathy, hereditary trustee of Tanjore Palace Devasthanams.
Bhonsle: What are your memories of the temple as a longtime resident of Thanjavur who has witnessed two of the kumbabhishekams for it?
Sarma: As a boy of eight, one afternoon in 1942, I was travelling in a bullock cart. The road was deserted. At a bend, this temple met my eye like a Black Gulliver in Lilliput. The tower is so conspicuous that no one can miss it even from afar.
Those days the temple was sparsely crowded, some 10 or 12 people all over its expanse. The fear of loneliness, robbery and the supernatural associated with the tamarind trees, kept me from visiting it after dark. In those times there was no great academic interest in the temple. Now, it’s flooded by devotees and tourists.
Researchers are greatly interested. It is said your role as hereditary trustee has brought about this change.
Bhonsle: We value devotee patronage. We believe in free entrance and darshan for all. We overcame several barriers and decentralised responsibilities. We are a cushion between the Archaeological Survey of India and the State Hindu Religious & Charitable Endowments Department on the one hand, and the public on the other. We are striking a balance between ritual and monument maintenance.
We also ensured the continuity of the dance tradition, through the South Zone Art and Cultural Centre and other like-minded persons and organisations. Now the tradition is carried on by the Brahan Natyanjali Foundation. For us dance is a ritual rather than a performance.
The Big Temple and the Sarasvati Mahal Library are inextricable. The library houses many records about temple administration under the regime of Serfoji II. In those days the temple had five huge cars and 27,000 people were involved in pulling it. From the records we learn how many people were requisitioned from each place, at which choultries they were accommodated and how much the Chatram Management spent on the pantry. More than a record house, the library has served as a knowledge bank for sociologists. Tell us about your documentary on the temple?
Sarma: When Dr M Rajaram was Thanjavur district collector, the government of India felt a need for an audio-visual venture on this heritage centre. The question arose who could do it. As it was to be globally beamed, many felt the script should be in English, by somebody knowledgeable in art, literature and language and they chose me.
A documentary is unlike a film. It lacks a storyline, characterisation, incidents and emotional appeal. I added certain literary and lyrical qualities to a statement of fact. It was enlivened with shots of the Cauvery, green fields and music of the delta. Did you enjoy it?
Bhonsle: Very much. You reached the masses without compromising on historicity.
Spectacular measures
Casts no shadow
The temple was built with 130,000 tonnes of granite. The 60-metre tall vimana is still the tallest in South India. A European-like figure is carved on the vimana, probably a warning of the arrival of the British. It is said that at no time of the day does the gopuram cast a shadow.
Largest Shiva lingam
Lord Brahadheeswara and Goddess Brahannayaki are the presiding deities here. The Shiva Lingam at the temple is the largest in existence — a monolithic cylindrical structure of 1.66 m dia, mounted on an Aavudaiyar of 5.44 m dia.
Inspired by Lanka
The temple was built by Rajaraja Chola I between AD 995 and AD 1010. It is said that while in Eelam (Sri Lanka) the king saw many Buddha statues that were tall and huge which inspired him to build a temple on that scale for his deity Shiva.
Built like the pyramids
The octagonal single block of granite atop the tower of the temple weighs 80 tonnes. It is believed that it was raised on a custom-built ramp from more than 6 kms away similar to how the Great Pyramids of Egypt were constructed.
A survivor
The vimana (dome) known as Dakshinameru, rises to a height of 216 feet, with a 14-storied tower. The base supporting the tower is 96 sq feet. The sikara is octagonal and the gilded kalasa is 12.5 feet high. The temple has survived
six earthquakes.
The Nandhi myth
Home to the 12 feet tall, 19.5 feet long and 8.25 feet wide Nandhi, this shrine is the second largest of its kind in the world. It is said the Nandhi continued to grow until a nail was driven into its back and its growth was stopped.
Royal celebrations
The chief festival is the Chitrai Brahmotsavam over 18 days in April-May. Thiruvathirai, spread over 10 days culminating in the Arudra Darisanam, is celebrated in December and January. Sadhaya Vizha every Aipassi, marks the birthday of Rajaraja.
Keeping the books
Rajaraja Chola was the first Chola King to document his rule on stone tablets and copper plates. Inscriptions at the complex record donations to the temple made not only by him and his sister but also commoners.
A thousand performers
Bharatanatyam exponent Dr Padma Subrahmanyam will present 1,000 gurus and performers in a natyanjali number, Rajarajeswaram 1,000, at the Big Temple Complex, Thanjavur, at 7 pm this evening.
— g_krishnamoorthy@expressbuzz.com
