Beauty and the Best
Beauty forever. Until it isn’t. Hyaluronic acid was the magic elixir of skin care until a year ago. The naturally produced acid, which helps keep the joints lubricated was the best hydrating agent de jour. Today, the acid is old news. Niacinamide acid is the new-age elixir. It is present in creams, serums, lotions et al—a form of Vitamin B3, it minimises enlarged pores and evens the skin tone. Use it, and the skin looks younger because the lines on the face are now less.
Beauty is the beast that keeps changing the goal post because like any other fairy tale, it has a script and a script-writer. It also makes boatloads of money, bloating like a bad Botox job from $374.18 billion in 2023 to $393.75 billion this year. It is ever present in side-lane salons and luxury spas; an enduring vanity since 2907 BC, when archaeologists exhumed scented unguent jars from royal tombs; unguent is a skin-hydrating substance like hyaluronic acid, and is also supple and protects the face from wrinkles from the desert’s dry heat.
Let’s be clear about one thing: Science is the boss.
AI is there to choose the right product for the right skin type; it will also customise treatments. Skinimalism is mainstream with top beauty brands selling minimalist skincare regimens using active ingredients with multitasking products with three to five essential products max. NeuroGlow is a beauty guru, channeling the interconnectedness between mental well-being and physical appearance. Exosomes, which are partisan guerillas in skincare meant to restore and preserve natural radiance, are getting new technology interventions.
Augmented reality is animated beauty. Though not a new technology, it made a super comeback after the pandemic because it allowed—and still does—clients to try on virtual makeup, beauty filters and skincare analysis through Digital Out of Home (DOOH). Using a smartphone or an iPad, AR overlays digitally animated accessories or products on real visuals, like a face or an arm, for example. It makes it easy for brands to personalise shopping through DOOH ad campaigns.
Skincare consumers in the click-bait age want well-researched and scientific evidence-based solutions, but there is a problem—the problem of plenty. The desire for alabaster skin, flawless complexion and effervescent glow is as old as time, but the sheer number of products, treatments and elixirs available in the market has transformed aspiration into an obsession. Trends sway towards skin-barrier repairing and restoring, multifunctional products and AI-based personalised skin care; according to a Gartner survey, 50 per cent consumers prefer AI-powered recommendations for beauty products.
Eco-conscious sustainable products are growing in numbers. Both skin slugging (where you flood your skin with multiple products) and skin streaming (which advocates less is more) are gaining traction simultaneously. Clinical app-based solutions to beauty are already trending. Virtual try-ons, shade matching, skin reports, analysis using AI tools and tracking progress, giving beauty seekers tools at their fingertips, have been on the rise.
Cosmeceuticals are trending big time, since they promote internal beauty and health, and not just offer topical relief. Elizabeth Isaac, founder, Gunam Beauty, which launched last year, sees skincare trending towards barrier-repairing, collagen-boosting and brightening. Skinimalism is the holy word here. “People are reducing the number of steps in routines. Our new supplement launches are not only aimed at skin, but also to manage overall immunity, inflammation, etc.
We use ingredients that work synergistically—curcumin (a chemical derived from turmeric) and trikatu (a combination of three herbs: ginger, black pepper, long pepper), lutein (a pigment in green leafy vegetables), Vitamin C and Citrus Bioflavonoids,” says Isaac, who vouches for super-food Blue Spirulina (a blue-green algae that’s packed with vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and protein) for holistic health.
If your anti-ageing cream offers niacinamide or ceramides, or has a sunscreen, blemish-pigmentation solutions and moisturises, it’s a winner today. But tomorrow, it may need an extra dose of Vitamin C or glycolic acid. Experts say it is best to decode beauty in order to make informed choices and not be “skinfluenced”.
Skinformation is Power
Overall, the message is sophisticated simplicity: high-quality products that work. Hence, the beauty industry is developing a focused and targeted approach. Here’s an example: Both A and B have dry skin; both require products that offer hydration, that is, ones that contain ceramides. But A’s skin is also acne-prone, which can be resolved by niacinamide acid. B’s is simply dull, so a brightening agent such as Vitamin C will come in handy. Thus, while both A and B have dry skin, the former should go for a combination of ceramides and Niacinamide acid, and the latter a mix of ceramides and Vitamin C.
Brands are taking growing customised demands seriously. According to Apratim Majumdar, a Beauty and Personal Care professional with 18 years of experience, the demand-oriented supply is visible in the large-scale R&D undertaken by the manufacturers. He says, “Very few big brands misrepresent what they deliver. Their ingredients can be read on the labels.” That is, in fact, the first step towards accurate skin care—the whole label is a must read, small print and all.
“Ingredients in skincare are well-researched and tested, but one must be cautious about parabens,” says Dr Chytra Anand, chief cosmetic dermatologist, Kosmoderma Clinics and founder SkinQ. Parabens are a kind of chemical preservatives; a tiny amount is okay, since the absorption in the skin is minimal. Majumdar’s advice: “Go for brands with a significant number of ratings and reviews. Paid reviews don’t generate volume. Look at the record of the brand. If it is a specialised product, its expertise is documented.”
Takeaways: Different people with the same problems have different solutions depending on skin type. Read labels and ingredients list carefully. Go by ratings. Use parabens minimally.
The Glass Cage
Easy accessibility of products and the information white noise around the buyer is creating chaos in skin care. Dermatologists worry that net-savvy Gen Alpha (born after 2010) uses skincare too much, too soon, to get the porcelain skin of their dreams. Youthful skin requires only cleansers and toners at best to keep it glowing; many glass-skin photos are a con, being computer generated.
Individuals in their teens and early 20s are declaring war on their beleaguered pores by using anti-ageing products. “A big no-no is using retinol early when the skin is neither acne-prone nor congested. Indian skin is beautiful and is in growth stage till the age of 25,” warns Dr Anand. Celebrity makeup artist Sangita Raj sees young people using retinol, fillers, derma abrasions, quick fixes and interventional dermatology. Her advice: “Instead of following influencers blindly, be wary of fads. Using strong retinol peels or fillers at 22 is a bad idea. Don’t use acids indiscriminately because some have adverse reactions, and often the potency is beyond permissible limits.”
Chemicals are being used in abundance without realising the consequences. Several brands have come up with products with actives. The Ordinary’s Niacinamide serum has 10 per cent of the acid. Minimalist purveys a glycolic acid toner with a concentration of 8 per cent. Dot & Key’s Vitamin C serum boasts a concentration of 10 per cent. “Use them sparingly,” advises Dr Anand. She should know. “Actives make the skin sensitive, increase photosensitivity and sun cause damage. Most Indians use a lot of actives as seen on online influencer programs, but they forget to use the right sunscreen,” she adds. Her go-to skin care routine: sunscreen twice a day, a good PH-balanced cleanser and moisturiser.
Skincare brands are unleashing products on a lookist public to sort out superficial concerns of epigenetic ageing: changes and modifications in DNA and RNA. Lucy Goff, the founder of LYMA, has developed the world’s first epigenetic skin science to treat the root causes of ageing, not just the superficial signs. Feeding your skin is the best option: probiotic skincare is a problem solver in such cases.
In 2024, such products will pour into pores and give genetic benefits such as balancing skin microbiome, reducing inflammation, strengthening the skin barrier, managing acne and boosting hydration. Naturally natural has been the skincare GOAT forever: holistic bespoke skin products with plant-based ingredients created through DNA analysis can manage stress and sleeplessness as well.
Takeaways: Gen Alpha’s quest for glass skin is damaging the skin with chemicals and acids. Use formulated brands. Go probiotic with skincare to manage everything from inflammation to stress.
Know Thy Skin
Skin care has two basic rules: know whom to listen to, and know what you are using, not just the name on the label. All influencers aren’t phonies. Tarini Peshawaria warns against misleading advertising—the mother of one tests and tries products live for her followers and provides honest reviews. With a following of 706k on Instagram, she is a reliable voice in the skin care world.
“Companies claim to have ceramide moisturisers or ceramide sunscreens, but they actually have less than 0.5 per cent ceramides (fats in skin cells that form 30 to 40 per cent of the outer skin layer and help keep skin moist and blocks germs from entering the body), which is not enough for therapeutic benefit,” she says.
Old people are getting younger with science-based skin care. Roshini Laura George, founder and chief formulator at skincare brand Time Keeper has a prescription: “Niacinamide, peptides, ceramides, all address skin ageing, dullness, elasticity and wrinkles. Retinol is good for those above 30-35 to reduce fine lines and spots. peptides help build collagen.” For her wrinkle-wrought customers, she formulated a face oil using Rosehip oil with active compounds of vitamins A, E, K, F and omega fatty acids to replace “the oil lost, key to supple plump skin”.
Gen Alpha, living in the age of acne, use chemical exfoliants with acid formulations. There is a method to the madness. “Using high exfoliating serums without following up with a mask is bad practice. While exfoliating, use gentle and active exfoliants. Do not use scrubs on the face, only the body since without a mask, they strip open the surface skin barrier,” warns Dr Anand. More damage: causes the skin pores to open, increases clogging, and skin water loss leading to dehydration, inflammation and hyperpigmentation. Skin and body-positive influencer Prableen Kaur Bhomrah (753K plus followers) knows from her acne experience. “I use a hydrating moisturiser with ceramides, and a hydrating night-care cream. For my acne scars, I use glycolic acid from L’Oreal Paris. Kojic or azelaic acid are other effective alternatives,” she shares.
Takeaways: Trust the right influencers. Old is young with retinol and peptides. Be careful with scrubs. Gen Alpha, avoid partial treatment regimen.
Tech Touch-up
The latest skin-knowledge tool is Phygital Skin AI. It offers clinical skin analysis and gives personalised recommendations on a digital skincare app. Vichy Laboratoires Skin Consult AI have customised skin care routines taking into account the client’s facial features. Neutrogena Skin360 uses AI to scan the skin and offer solutions. In April this year, CureSkin launched in India with the objective of providing “continuous dermatologist care to manage ever-changing skin and hair conditions” using AI power: download the app, upload pictures, and answer the questionnaire. Based on the inputs, get a personal dermatologist, who will recommend a personal regimen and products based on unique skin and hair needs, and a tracking system to monitor progress.
Some apps use AI to show users what their face would look like with botox or fillers. Brands like Sephora, Cetaphil, Ulta Beauty, LVMH and Estée Lauder etc. utilise AI to customise solutions. Korean beauty offers an LED Mask (Artemis Beauty) for that much-coveted glass skin, and the latest one comes with its very own neck system at $3,500. The goodness of laser comes in the form of a LYMA Laser Starter Kit. The device claims to reduce skin sagging, address ageing, redness, textures and scars. Medical Beauty Research (MBR) offers an expensive Liquid Surgery Serum that claims to transform the complexion gloriously and restores skin elasticity.
Takeaways: Cosmeceuticals fare better than just skincare products. AI customises skin care routines based on facial features. Lasers are expanding their scope.
Home Sciences
The organic will never be unfashionable. There are mushrooms like Tremella with anti-ageing powers. When used in skin care, they prevent collagen breakdown, inflammation and dark spots. The much maligned caffeine reduces inflammation, addresses wrinkles, brightens the skin and reduces dark circles and puffiness under the eyes.
Even as the global organic skincare market size is estimated to reach $21.21 billion by 2030, often the products consumers believe to be natural aren’t. Says Dr Anand: “Using too many botanicals on the skin is harmful since they are photosensitising agents.” A good place to start is plant-based oils, butters, extracts and resins, which claim to have no genetic modifications, have cruelty-free pure fragrances and PH harmony.
Our grandmothers used naturals, and had flawless, supple and plump skin, even at the ripe old age of 80. “Using besan, red moong dal, aloe vera, rice powder, gotu kola or brahmi, liquorice or mulethi, and rice water is great for skin, along with an oil massage. When we sweat, we lose oils, thus outside support with oil massages helps rejuvenate the sebum. A lighter oil like castor or coconut at night, or even grape seed or sesame, at least on your face, hands and feet is great; use a roller stone to massage,” adds George.
Bhomrah, who uses products with active ingredients, also makes herself a face pack every now and then with curd and a pinch of turmeric. She warns against lemon, which “burns the skin, and breaks the skin barrier”.
Takeaways: All products advertised as organic aren’t organic. Exploit the power of natural domestic materials and practices.
Cash and Cachet
Overload of information has an ironic good side. It encourages users to try out outlier products. A perfect example would be snail mucin, for which the positives (moisturises, anti-ageing properties, heals) outweigh the negatives (speculations of snail excreta etc.).
A key part of the 10-step Korean skin care routine, it is the fifth step of essence application after one round each of oil- and water-based cleansing, exfoliating and toning. K-beauty is responsible for introducing many such ‘exotic’ ingredients—apioca, ginseng and centella asiatica—to Indian skin care enthusiasts.
A Statista survey found that 39 per cent of Indian women had a skin care routine of under 25 per cent Korean products, with 3 per cent using only K-beauty.
Bhomrah, whose skin care routine incorporates both snail mucin and centella asiatica, is one of them. Beauty content creator Aashi Adani is another convert. She uses Innisfree Green Tea Seed Serum to hydrate her face, and her routine includes the COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser. “It is gentle and doesn’t strip my skin of its natural moisture. COSRX Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence helps in hydration and healing, and the SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Tone Brightening Tone-Up SPF 50+ addresses dark spots,” she says.
Beauty products, however, are never truly exotic until they have the cachet of limited availability and a gross price tag. Beads in caviar water target skin ligaments to reduce fine lines and wrinkles while facials and spas using it cost a moist arm and a glossy leg. Dior’s limited-edition face cream is among the most expensive moisturisers—a 50 ml bottle costs 922 USD. Its main ingredient is Yquem sap.
Obtained from the Yquem vineyards in the Bordeaux region of France, it has been called “a youthful elixir for the skin”. La Prairie’s moisturiser uses platinum multi-peptide, and costs $1,690. The aching pursuit for flawless skin will never end. New trends and beauty routines will follow. Know thyself is knowing your skin and what works for it best. Skin is beauty deep, which doesn’t come cheap for wellness, health and credit cards.
Barrier repair
Plant oils rich in fatty acids and omegas, Usnic acid
Protecting your skin barrier is not just important to keep a youthful look. It also shields your body from harmful environmental toxins and getting severely dehydrated. Almost everything around you takes a toll on the skin barrier, from excess humidity and sun exposure to over-exfoliation and psychological distress, making skin repair a must. Use plant oils rich in fatty acids and omegas. Look for products with Usnic acid, a natural extract from lichens that balances skin’s microbiome
Acne care
BHA Liquid Exfoliant, Niacinamide acid
Acne happens when sebum, the oil that prevents the skin from drying, clogs the skin pores causing the skin to break out in pimples and zits, sometimes scarring it.
To manage acne, and get rid of resultant blemishes, use BHA l iquid exfoliant, which removes built-up dead skin cells. It also fights blackheads. Also, using products containing Niacinamide acid minimise enlarged pores and evens out the skin tone
Wrinkles and face lines
Retinol, Vitamin C
To tackle wrinkles and face lines, go for products with retinol, a form of Vitamin A, which neutralises free radicals in the middle layer of your skin, helping your skin look younger by reducing the appearance of face lines. You can choose from a range of products that have anything between 0.1 to 1 per cent retinol
Skin Elasticity
Collagen, Glycolic acid
Type 1 collagen is the secret to healthy bones, skin, nails and hair. Healthy levels of the protein prevent the skin from sagging. After a person crosses 25 years of age, natural collagen levels in the body start depleting. Experts recommend turning to external sources. Consume collagen-boosting food such as citrus fruits, leafy greens, chicken, fish and egg whites; or go for topical treatment with creams, serums and lotions with the protein
Water Boost
Ceramides, hyaluronic acid
Well-hydrated skin looks youthful and plump with a natural glow. To ensure your skin gets the right dose of hydration, incorporate products that have ceramides and/or hyaluronic acid