Dancing to the stars
On a cool night in November, in three forested villages of Goa, a group of women come together to sing and dance around a tulsi vrindavan (holy basil planter), in a formation that looks like a star from above. This folk dance is part of the Katyo festival which is held in the villages of Udalshe, Okambi in Dharbandora taluka, and Pazwada in Ponda taluka of Goa.
The night is dedicated to Krittika nakshatra. “Katyo is the sole festival among all the Indian festivals that is actually in praise of a nakshatra in the sky,” says Devansh Cholera, founder of Goa-based Cosmic Ventures that conducts stargazing excursions. This one-of-a-kind festival is held on the night of the full moon.
Gautam Jalmi, who conducts various science, astronomy, and environment-related awareness events in remote villages of Goa, Maharashtra, and Karnataka, under the banner of Chaand Surya, maintains that this festival speaks about the intricate relationship between man and nature. “Katyo is held at the crucial time of the year when we experience a change in climate as it heralds the arrival of the winter season,” he explains.
In Udalshe village this festival is held for four days and culminates on the full moon night or Poornima. On this day the woman of the village headman’s or gaonkar’s family keeps a fast. “It is a very strict fast where one must not even drink water for 24 hours,” says Sheetal Kalekar, who kept the fast this year.
The festivities begin at dusk with a drawing of rangoli of the sun, moon, and Krittika nakshatra near the tulsi vrindavan by Sheetal along with gaonkar, Ganapat Kalekar. He then recites a garhane (invocation) near the tulsi vrindavan, asking for the peace and prosperity of the village. Naivaidya or prasad is offered which consists of rice pancakes (pole), rice kheer (paais), and steamed wild tubers (kanga).
Then through the night women gather from the village to sing and dance forming an inner and outer circle around the tulsi vrindavan. Dressed in traditional attire, these women of all ages—married, unmarried, widows—sing songs that praise the celestial wonder of the moon and the stars, their deities, village life, ecology, etc.
The women dance till past midnight or till the Krittika nakshatra is seen clearly in the sky. Mainly celebrated by the Gawda community in Goa, it also speaks about the agrarian tradition as it was held to protect their crop from wildfire. Kalekar says, “It is believed that in the old days during this time of the year due to the weather conditions, the paddy would often catch fire. So, for the protection of the paddy and the village, we host this festival.” A fiery passion that continues.