Mascara Men

The Indian male and the new rules of makeup
Photo for representation
Photo for representation
Updated on
14 min read

Across India, a quiet revolution is unfolding on men’s faces. Especially small town India. Until recently, makeup was widely considered a female domain. Now, take a stroll through the bustling markets of Indore, Guwahati, or Ranchi, and you’ll see men buying concealers, experimenting with BB creams, beard care products, exotic shampoos and soaps. They are learning about contouring on Instagram reels. Men are making visible beauty statements with both self-confidence and aspiration. This shift is not superficial—it’s symbolic of deeper societal transformations. In traditional Indian towns, masculinity has long been associated with machismo (mardaangi), stoic virility and hunter-gatherer-provider trope. Makeup, on the other hand, was either effeminate or exclusive to entertainers. That narrative is eroding. The post-pandemic boom in digital activity, combined with affordable smartphones and regional language content on social media and OTT, has exposed young men to broader definitions of beauty and masculinity.

Influencers from smaller cities are showing that skincare and makeup are about personal grooming, self-assurance, and ambition. This isn’t about vanity. It’s about visibility. Whether it’s an aspiring actor from Bhopal or a social media influencer from Jamshedpur, there’s a growing awareness that appearance matters—especially in an era where the front-facing camera is often the first seduction.

In Ghaziabad, 27-year-old data analyst Biraj Majumdar confesses that he first wore makeup at his wedding. “The artist dabbed foundation and a bronzer on me,” he recalls. “When I saw the photos, I realised I looked better than I ever had.” Months later, he bought his first compact powder online. Now, he uses it before starting his day. “I feel sharper, like I’m putting my best version forward.”

Unlike in metro cities, where fashion and beauty trends are often seen as lifestyle choices, in small-town India they are deeply aspirational. For many young men, using makeup is a way to rise above their socio-economic limitations. It concerns improving marriage prospects, doing better in job interviews, or gaining popularity on Instagram or YouTube. Makeup is becoming a tool of male social mobility. A polished appearance can convey ambition, confidence, and modernity. Brands are taking note. Homegrown labels like Sugar and MyGlamm are launching gender-neutral lines and leveraging regional influencers to tap into this aspirational male market.

In Bihar, a 19-year-old physics student, Vikas Kumar, is already late for class, but he won’t leave without a quick swipe of lip balm. He started using it after his sister teased him for having “dry, cracked lips” in the winter season. Now, the lip balm is a fixture in his jeans pocket, as important as his phone or earbuds. Two states away in Uttarakhand, Kshitij Rawat, a 30-year-old marketing manager, admits he began using under-eye concealer only last year. “Clients expect me to look sharp,” he explains. “When I look good, I get treated with more respect.”

Small-town India is no longer economically marginal. Rising disposable incomes and jobs, the mall boom, growth of e-commerce, and aggressive marketing by beauty brands have made products accessible. Amazon and Nykaa deliver makeup kits to remote pin codes, and male grooming startups are targeting Tier II and III cities with tailored messaging. Importantly, young men today are willing to spend on themselves. A good skincare regime or the right foundation is now seen as an investment, not a luxury. Social media, particularly Instagram and YouTube Shorts, has democratised beauty. Tutorials in Hinglish or local dialects now teach everything from applying foundation to maintaining skincare routines—normalising what was once hidden or ridiculed.

Tinted moisturiser
Tinted moisturiser

The shift from grooming

For decades, “men’s grooming” in India was limited to shaving kits, deodorants, and the occasional fairness cream advertised on TV. Remember Shah Rukh Khan endorsing men’s skin-lightening gels, or the dozens of macho deodorant commercials that implied women would swoon with one spray? That was the extent of the category.

But in the last five years, the lines between grooming and makeup have blurred. India’s male-grooming products market was valued at $2.1 billion in 2023 and is projected to reach $4.1 billion by 2032, growing at a CAGR of 7.2 per cent, according to IMARC Group. Globally, this market was worth $58.46 billion in 2023, and is expected to reach $85.53 billion by 2032, with a CAGR of 4.18 per cent, as per Fortune Business Insights. Platforms like Nykaa Man and Purplle have entire sections dedicated to men’s BB creams, tinted moisturisers, and compact powders. International brands—Sephora, Huda Beauty, MAC—are no longer shy about showing male models in campaigns, while homegrown players like Sugar and Kay Beauty quietly report growing demand from male customers.

On a humid August morning in Delhi, 38-year-old Sourav Chowdhury sits at his study table, but not with his textbooks. Instead, he’s hunched over a mirror, carefully tapping a drop of BB cream under his eyes. The product isn’t branded “for men,” but that hardly matters. “Dark circles make me look tired,” he shrugs, blending the cream with his fingertips before heading out for the office. “This way, I look like I’ve slept, even if I haven’t.” Ten years ago, Sourav might have hidden this ritual from his friends. Today, he’s proud of his skincare routines, discusses them with friends, and even recommends products to people on social media about shades, brands, and hacks. He is not alone. From Ranchi to Kochi, what was once a hush-hush act, tucked behind bathroom doors, is now stepping into the light.

“Men’s skin is about 20-25 per cent thicker and produces about twice as much sebum (oil) as women. Their skin ages differently and is usually rougher and, due to frequent shaving, may be drier or more sensitive. So, they usually benefit from formulations made specifically for their skin,” explains Dr Shriya Sirohiya, Consultant Dermatology, Sehgal Neo Hospital. She adds that it isn’t just about copying what women use, but about adopting products that actually work for men’s skin concerns. “Products should be selected based on skin type, texture and concern. Certain products in tutorials may not suit everyone, and sensitive skin may react negatively to particular ingredients,” she says.

Arindam Adak, a 29-year-old medical representative and part-time model, recalls, “My first connection with makeup wasn’t through the ramp, it was during my daily work as a medical representative. I meet doctors in clinics all day, and after long hours of travel, I realised how important it is to look presentable. A fresh face makes people take you more seriously. Later, when I began modelling, makeup took on a new meaning. Over time, I started seeing makeup as part of my professional toolkit, no different from wearing a crisp shirt or polished shoes.”

In fact, most men don’t call it “makeup” at all; they say “grooming,” “skincare,” or “looking fresh.” But their routines go beyond sunscreen and moisturiser. Lip tints, BB creams, concealers, and even bronzers are sneaking into bedrooms and bathrooms across India.

Desire and societal pressure

Makeup is becoming a symbol of changing aspirations—less about beauty, more about agency, self-definition, and the freedom to choose how one is seen. In Mumbai, 38-year-old Paresh Mutha, who works at IBM, says, “For me, makeup defines your personality without saying a word. Bold shades reflect confidence, energy, and attitude, while a natural look shows simplicity, comfort, and elegance. I believe it’s completely gender neutral, and everyone should have the freedom to express themselves the way they want.” Psychologists say that secrecy and open expression are part of the same push-pull. “Men want the benefits of makeup, confidence, acceptance, attractiveness, but society still codes it as feminine,” says Shrestha Mudgal, researcher and psychologist. “The online space provides anonymity and community, which is why young men experiment there first.” Many dermatologists add that the demand isn’t vanity alone. With stress, pollution, and late nights leaving visible marks, makeup offers a quick fix. They claim seeing boys as young as 18 who ask how to hide scars or pigmentation before any major event.

The fact that the men’s skincare industry is fast targeting specific skincare concern that requires personalisation makes it easy to influence millennials and Gen Z, who are driving the beauty industry these days. The demands placed by these generations and their need to be seen, self-expression, and self-care that revolves around skincare based on their specific demands is what makes a huge difference. “Today, men are using cosmetics as much as women; there is no shame around it, the belief that men too like to look flawlessly beautiful as they like being desired, and makeup is not limited to being a feminine product,” says Shahnaz Husain, Founder, Chairperson, and Managing Director of the Shahnaz Husain Group of Companies.

Lip balm with tint
Lip balm with tint

Changing times

While women’s campaigns unabashedly use the language of beauty, men’s products are almost always positioned under the banner of “grooming” or “performance”. Concealers become “blemish balms,” foundation is sold as “skin tint,” and lip tints are marketed as “hydrating balms.” The vocabulary is deliberately gender-neutral, designed to reassure customers who may still feel conflicted about openly buying makeup. The product is the same, but the language is tailored to soothe the unease.

Gautam Bali, MD and Founder of Vestige Marketing Pvt. Ltd., notes how this shift has been accelerating beyond metros, “The definition of self-care is rapidly evolving in India, with men now at the forefront of this transformation.” A trend once limited to metros is now taking over smaller towns as well, driven by aspirational influencers, greater visibility, and the ease of e-commerce. “At Vestige, we are making self-care more accessible through our multiple channels, offering clean-label, functional products that empower men to adopt routines that feel authentic, modern, and aspirational. Our premium skincare, ranging from glow sheet masks and serums to moisturisers, supports this new wave of conscious self-expression, helping men translate self-worth into everyday confidence,” he says.

Uttara Talapatra, Founder of Magical Blends and a certified skincare coach, adds that this shift is cultural as much as commercial, “Men are no longer content being the plus one in pictures. Looks, grooming, and style are equally important for them now and they want to create aesthetic memories, as much as women. Men are comfortable owning their specialist skincare rituals. Being well-groomed doesn’t take away from your masculinity,” she says.

The mirror at home is where this transformation is reflected. Dressing tables and such belong to sisters and mothers, but are now part of makeup routines of brothers, sons, and fathers. The gestures are small, almost invisible: a dab of cream under the eyes, a faint tint on the lips, a pressed powder across the forehead. Yet collectively, they mark a significant rewriting of what it means to look and feel “presentable”. Experts describe it as a generational negotiation. Older men still treat makeup as a rare indulgence, while younger ones increasingly view it as part of everyday armour.

In recent years, the grooming industry has seen a significant rise in demand for advanced facial treatments tailored specifically for men. No longer limited to basic skincare routines, men are now exploring high-tech and targeted solutions designed to address a variety of skin concerns, from aging and dryness to acne and uneven texture. “One of the most popular treatments gaining traction is the HydraFacial, a multi-step procedure that deeply cleanses, exfoliates, and hydrates the skin using a patented vortex suction system. It’s particularly effective for removing impurities from congested pores while infusing nourishing serums into the skin, making it ideal for men with oily or acne-prone skin,” says Deepali Bhardwaj, anti-skin allergy specialist and dermatologist at Centre for Skin and Hair Pvt Ltd, Delhi.

Another emerging favourite is LED light therapy, which uses different wavelengths to target specific skin issues. Blue light combats acne-causing bacteria, while red light stimulates collagen production and reduces inflammation, making it useful for aging or sensitive skin. Microneedling has also gained popularity among men seeking to reduce acne scars, fine lines, or enlarged pores. The procedure uses tiny needles to create micro-injuries that stimulate the skin’s natural healing process and collagen production.

Chemical peels, once considered harsh, are now available in gentler, more customised formulations for men. These peels exfoliate dead skin cells and improve skin tone and clarity, especially beneficial for men experiencing dullness or sun damage. For those interested in non-invasive rejuvenation, radiofrequency facials use heat energy to tighten skin and boost elasticity, offering noticeable results with no downtime. As awareness grows, men are increasingly viewing skincare not just as a cosmetic concern but as a form of self-care. “These new facial treatments offer effective, science-backed ways to maintain healthy, youthful-looking skin, with many clinics now tailoring their services to meet the unique needs of male skin, which tends to be thicker and oilier than women’s,” says Bhardwaj.

Camouflaged as special

Makeup for men in India still carries the shadow of “special occasions.” Weddings, photoshoots, job interviews, moments where the pressure to look flawless is heightened. But increasingly, the definition of “occasion” is stretching. Mintel research reveals that 49 per cent of Gen Z Indian men use facial creams, and around 40 per cent of them say self-confidence ranks higher than looking attractive (35 per cent) as reasons for using male grooming products.

According to Samir Srivastav, CEO of Looks Salon, “Over the past few years, specially post-Covid, we have seen a clear rise in men asking for services beyond the traditional haircut and shave. Skincare is the fastest growing segment, with facials, de-tan treatments, clean-ups, and hydrating therapies being the most in demand. Makeup requests also come in, especially for weddings, shoots, and special occasions.” A Mintel study reveals that three in 10 Indian men (30 per cent) are actively interested in expanding their facial skincare routines, higher than women at 26 per cent. This number jumps to 35 per cent among men aged 25-34, indicating growing curiosity and openness to new skincare categories.

Dr Geetika Srivastava, dermatologist and founder of Influennz Clinic, points to a noticeable shift in grooming among male patients. “I’ve noticed a steady rise in men actively seeking skincare advice. They openly discuss concerns like stretch marks, receding hairlines, or sagging skin, and they’re not shy about getting treatments done. Interestingly, they’re often less fussy than women, more loyal to routines, and prefer simpler regimens. Shiny, healthy skin has become a new status symbol,” she says.

But for some, makeup remains a one-off tool for ceremonial moments; for others, it is as routine as shaving or ironing a shirt. The balance between the two tells the larger story of an India still negotiating how much polish a man is allowed to wear every day. The first test often begins at home. Partners tend to be the earliest encouragers; many women frame makeup for men as an extension of self-care, no different from moisturising or styling hair. Makeup artists say it is often wives or girlfriends who buy the first cream or concealer for the men in their lives. The older generation, however, are often slower to adapt. Psychologists point out that parental reactions are often shaped by generational attitudes of masculinity. For older cohorts, makeup continues to represent femininity.

Peer reactions are a grey zone. Vinay Harihar, 25, a software developer from Bengaluru, shares, “Reactions to me using makeup are mostly positive. My friends and cousins are often surprised at how natural my look appears, even with multiple products. They even ask me for product recommendations because many people don’t understand shade-matching or undertones. Of course, there’s occasional judgment, but I don’t take it personally.” Among close-knit groups, there can still be mockery, nicknames, jokes, and the casual dismissal of makeup as “unmanly”. But among colleagues and acquaintances, the change is subtler. Polished appearances are increasingly interpreted as professionalism rather than vanity, especially in urban workspaces where grooming has become an unspoken part of office etiquette.

According to Harry Singh, hair and makeup artist, “In orthodox families, makeup on men is still seen as effeminate and unacceptable, which stops many from even using basics like skincare or styling. But the stigma is eroding fast. Exposure to global trends and job demands in sectors like hospitality, aviation, and media are pushing men to embrace grooming and, increasingly, makeup.” What emerges is a layered picture: encouragement from partners, hesitation from family elders, mixed responses from friends, and a gradual re-coding of male beauty. In other words, the support system exists, but it is uneven, reflecting India’s larger negotiations with masculinity and appearance.

Mental health experts see another layer. For younger men, especially, makeup is tied to self-worth. “We are living in a visual culture,” says Mudgal. “Self-image is constantly under scrutiny, whether on social media or in real-world settings. Makeup offers men a way to control that gaze, to project confidence in a world that rewards appearance.” While over-reliance can risk reinforcing insecurities, many psychologists also note its empowering role in reducing anxiety tied to looks.

The broader story, then, is not just about cosmetics. It is about agency, how men are learning to claim control over their appearance in a society that has long denied them that specific aesthetic language. Self-presentation is survival, whether for job interviews, dating apps, or simply the cell phone camera that never stops taking selfies. A slow but steady recalibration of masculinity is happening: “looking good” is no longer a taboo but a tool for social access. The revolution may not be loud, but it is already visible, on faces in small towns and cities alike.

As the lines between personal grooming and performance blur, and as more men claim the right to look and feel good, this movement will likely only grow. In a country where appearances are starting to matter as much as qualifications, makeup has become a surprising but powerful tool of ambition and self-expression.

Tradition in a compact

Long before grooming aisles brimmed with beard oils, BB creams, and serums from brands like The Man Company, Beardo, or L’Oréal Men Expert, Indian men were already well-acquainted with cosmetics. Not as vanity—but as ritual, identity, and art.

Makeup has long been integral to India’s cultural and artistic heritage. From the regal courts to rural stages, Indian men used cosmetics to embody roles, signal power, and honour tradition. In classical dance forms like Kathakali and Odissi, makeup is not mere decoration—it’s transformation. The vivid green of a pacha (noble hero) in Kathakali, created with rice paste and natural dyes, signals virtue and order, while the red-streaked face of a kathi (villain) reflects pride and aggression. This isn’t beauty—it’s embodiment.

In northern Kerala, Theyyam performers undergo hours of preparation, painting their faces in intricate red, black, and white patterns using natural pigments like laterite, rice powder, and coconut oil. This is not just makeup; it is possession. Once the paint is on, the man becomes the deity. In Karnataka’s Yakshagana or Assam’s Bhaona theatre, bold facial colours, lined eyes, and elaborately drawn brows help male performers channel gods, demons, and sages.

These traditions are mirrored in the lives of India’s tribal communities too, where men have long used ochre, charcoal, turmeric, and ash to paint their faces and bodies for rituals, festivals, and war. For many Adivasi groups, makeup isn’t aesthetic—it’s spiritual, symbolic, and communal.

Even Indian royalty embraced cosmetics. The rajas and princes of pre-colonial India used kajal, attars, sandalwood paste, and skin potions as part of their elaborate grooming rituals. Portraits from the Mughal and Rajput courts often depict noblemen with kohl-lined eyes, glowing complexions, and jewelled accessories—symbols of status and refinement.

These practices challenge the modern, narrow notion that makeup is feminine or foreign. As Vinod Kevin Bachan, 38, Odissi Dancer, YSNA Awardee, explains, “When I first started dancing, I never liked makeup. Growing up in a patriarchal mindset, I believed makeup was for women and enhanced femininity. Even though I was a dancer, I was hesitant, afraid people would make fun of me. But over time, I realized the heavy stage makeup we used demanded a skincare routine, so I began paying attention to my skin — using steam, toner, serum, and diet — to protect myself. For classical dancers, grooming is essential because our performance years last into our seventies. It’s not just external but internal care that sustains the art.”

“Yes, classical dance gives us a legitimate entry point into makeup, but the stigma doesn’t go away. I’ve been laughed at, pointed at, and even rejected personally because people see male dancers with makeup as effeminate. Society hasn’t fully accepted it, even though makeup has always been part of performance traditions worldwide,” he adds.

What today’s urban man sees as “modern grooming” is in fact a continuation of these layered traditions. From tribal rituals to temple performances to royal courts, Indian men have always painted their faces—not for fashion, but for transformation. And as more men reach for BB creams, serums, and beard kits, they aren’t breaking with culture. They’re reviving it.

Makeup for Indian men isn’t a new import. It’s a return.

Related Stories

No stories found.

X
The New Indian Express
www.newindianexpress.com