Biryani to podi dosa, Kerala eatery serves Indian chess stars in Norway

Erigaisi, featuring in Stavanger for the first time, was told about the place by R Praggnanandhaa, who tasted their food last year.
Arjun Erigaisi with co-owner Nitish Kamath (right) at the restaurant in Stavanger
Arjun Erigaisi with co-owner Nitish Kamath (right) at the restaurant in Stavanger
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STAVANGER (NORWAY): After obliging the vast array of autograph hunters outside the playing hall at the venue, Arjun Erigaisi got into a car and made his way to an eatery that has become the rage among Indian chess players here. It’s a trip all four Indian players — R Vaishali, D Gukesh and Koneru Humpy the others — have already made at the ongoing edition of Norway Chess.

Erigaisi, featuring in Stavanger for the first time, was told about the place by R Praggnanandhaa, who tasted their food last year. The players’ favourites include lamb masala, chicken biryani and, in Vaishali’s case, podi dosa. “A few of the players ordered south Indian style lamb masala,” says Nitish Kamath, one of the five owners of Spisoh. “Humpy doesn’t have a set template and we have noticed that Vaishali has picked up podi dosa on a few occasions.”

Arjun Erigaisi with co-owner Nitish Kamath (right) at the restaurant in Stavanger
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Spisoh — an unlikely portmanteau between the Norwegian word spis (to eat) and the Hindi word khaao—was a product of the pandemic thanks to the imagination of several first generation immigrants originally from Kerala. “We came up with the concept of a ghost kitchen,” says Kamath, who has been working in the energy sector for more than a decade. Spisoh is ‘official food partner’ this time. The one-time ghost kitchen still has only one permanent employee — a chef from Tamil Nadu who was about to go back home after losing his job in an Oslo hotel after Covid.

Gukesh was one of the first Indian players to try out Spisoh’s food in 2023. Less than 10 minutes after Erigaisi bested Gukesh, the former was seen exchanging a few friendly words with Kamath outside the playing hall. “I’m going there to pick up my food,” he said.

Arjun Erigaisi with co-owner Nitish Kamath (right) at the restaurant in Stavanger
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