MADIKERI: December to January is coffee cherry time in Kodagu, and estates across the district wear an ornamental red look during this period. Among the first visitors who come in quest of the aroma of the coffee cherries are the Asian Palm Civets, who are among the best coffee pickers. They pick and feast on premium quality coffee cherries on the vast estates and poop out the most expensive coffee beans in the world. Kodagu district has a large population of civets – a cat-like wild animal whose population is scattered across certain belts of the district.
While civets were earlier hunted down as game meat, they are now welcomed as special guests as they generate additional revenue for coffee growers. It is only recently that Kodagu has found a way to generate revenue from the world’s most expensive poop. Kopi Luwak, or Civet Coffee, brewed from the processed poop of civets, is the world’s most expensive coffee. What is so special about civet poop? The coffee beans ferment in the civet’s intestine, and when defecated, are coated with additional aroma and nutrients.
“Kopi Luwak is popular in Indonesia and some Western countries. These countries cage civets, feed them premium coffee cherries and brew this exotic coffee,” explains Thammoo Poovaiah, proprietor of AinMane. However, in Kodagu, civets are free range wild cats and are not harmed or caged. Growers, especially women, collect civet poop scattered across coffee estates and sell it for over Rs 1,000 per kilo. Poojashree, a native of Sullia, moved to Kodagu after marrying Abhishek, an estate owner in Murnad. She gradually learnt about civets and spotted a few on their 25-acre coffee estate.
Astonished to find coffee beans neatly arranged in civet poop, she planned to capitalise on it and attempted to sell the poop on online platforms. “During coffee harvest time, we roam the estate and look for civet poop, and collect 8-10 kilos annually in December and January,” she narrates. She started selling samples of civet poop across online sites in 2018, and even processed it. “A few online forums asked for roasted civet beans. So I have also tried my hands at cleaning civet poop and roasting the beans, which sold for Rs 3,000 per kilo.” However, the pandemic has affected online sales and this year, she sold the civet poop to AinMane Café in Madikeri.
Rani Neelamma, a resident of Mekeri village, would collect civet poop and powder the roasted beans for her own use. However, she recently learnt about the profitable returns, and now collects civet poop from across estates to earn pocket money. Roopa KC, a resident of Murnad, owns over 20 acres of coffee estate, with many visiting civets. “I manage the estate alone and don’t have time to collect civet poop. I requested labourers to collect it and sold it last year. This year, I have just kept a sample of the poop by the window sill for visitors to take a look,” she says.
While civets have been residing in the district for ages, it is only recently that their faeces has gained economic importance. “Nearly four years ago, I started collecting civet poop from growers across the district,” recalls Poovaiah. He ensured that the coffee beans were not mixed with the droppings, and sent unadulterated poop to the Coffee Board to be analysed. There was no doubt about the quality of the beans. “From 5kg of poop, one can get just 2kg of coffee. The beans has to be thoroughly cleaned manually, hulled to perfection, graded and roasted to produce this expensive brand of coffee,” he says.
He reckons that the idea of civets being just game meat has now changed, and civet coffee production in the district has led to conservation of these cats. “Among the three types of civets, two are vegetarians and their diet largely consists of ripened fruits, including coffee (during the season) and toddy fruit. They are free range animals and their population is concentrated across Murnad, Parane and Birunani areas,” he says.
Poovaiah collects nearly three to four tonnes of Civet Coffee annually, and over 100 growers across the district contribute to this massive collection. He had exported it to Brazil last year, and Kodagu’s Civet Coffee is now grabbing the attention of international coffee connoisseurs. “Many small growers are earning additional revenue. While Civet Coffee is banned in many countries due to exploitation of these rare cats, in Kodagu, it has resulted in their conservation,” he says.
Kodagu dist among the first places in India to produce Kopi Luwak, world’s most expensive coffee
Robusta and Arabica coffee cherry price Rs 2,500-Rs 4,000 for 50 kg
Civet coffee poop marketed at minimum Rs 1,000 per kg
Processed Civet Coffee priced at Rs 40,000 - Rs 50,000 per kg in international market
Profits earned from Civet Coffee lead to conservation of the species in Kodagu
Kodagu produces nearly 36% of India’s coffee