KOTTAYAM: When the clock strikes 10 on the night of Avittam star, following the festival of Thiruvonam in Chingam, a rhythmic chanting shatters the profound silence in the quaint village of Neelamperoor.
The villagers, their faces illuminated by the warm glow of lighted bundles of dry coconut leaves known as ‘choottu’, chant ‘HOOYYOH!’, marking the beginning of a unique and ancient ritual being celebrated for nearly 1,800 years.
Neelamperoor Padayani, believed to have originated in the 3rd or 4th century CE, is a spectacular event that showcases the rich culture of Indian villages.
Once a year, the Neelamperoor Palli Bhagavathi temple comes alive with vibrant colours as it hosts the grand festival. Enchanting swans and effigies of various goddesses come to life through ritualistic dance forms as part of the festival in Neelamperoor, nestled in the Kuttanad taluk along the borders of Kottayam and Alappuzha districts.
While Padayani festivals are common in Devi temples across Kerala, the Neelamperoor Padayani stands out due to the presence of ‘annam’ (swans). For 16 nights every year, the village becomes a hub of activities with the creation of swans as tall as three feet to 40 feet, as well as kolam (effigies) for the Padayani festival.
“The Padayani rituals span 16 days, commencing on the Avittam star each year, with ceremonies taking place at 10 pm every night. The festival reaches its climax on the 16th day with a grand Padayani display showcasing the enchanting dance of all these magnificent swans,” said Sreekumar P K, a member of the temple Devasom committee.
Dedicated to Goddess Vanadurga, the ritual begins with the ‘choottuvaickal’ ceremony, where dry coconut leaves are lit. The festivities then progresses through the display of various kolams (effigies) a poomaram (blossoming tree), thattukuda (layered umbrellas), paravalayam (layered circles), kodikkoora (temple flag), kudaneerthu, plavilakkolam, and kaval pisachu.
These divine and semi-divine figures are skillfully crafted using materials such as the green leaves of the jack fruit tree, tender leaves of coconut or the fibrous stem of plantain and ixora flowers.
The festival culminates with a spectacular display of parading and dancing by up to 65 swans on the night of the Pooram star, one of the 27 nakshatras in ancient Indian astrology.
According to Sreekumar, this year’s Padayani falls on October 1 and will feature 53 swans measuring around 3 feet, four swans of 5.3 feet in height, and one swan of 7.67 feet, as well as three giant swans known as ‘valiya annam’ standing between 20 to 40 feet. The artistry and craftsmanship involved in this traditional ritual are truly unparalleled.
“The creation of swans requires patience and skill. It is a race against time as the final decoration of all 65 swans is completed in a single day. The intricate carving of the stems into shape is a skill that must be honed through experience,” said Ajayan Neelamperoor, a villager.
One of the festival’s main attractions is its strong connection to biodiversity and environmental conservation. The origins of Padayani are shrouded in the misty dawn of history. Some historians suggest that it dates back to the Buddhist period, while others attribute its roots to the Dravidian traditions. The celebration draws the entire village together regardless of religion and caste for a mesmerising display of colour and music.