Locked between the idyllic backwaters and the roaring sea, Alappuzha boasts an illustrious past that had earned it a reputation as the ‘Venice of the East’ and the ‘Land of the Golden Fibre’.
In politics, too, it made history as a communist citadel raised on the foundation laid by the Punnapra–Vayalar peasant uprising. But recent election results indicate an erosion of Left loyalty.
While Alappuzha has witnessed considerable growth in the past decade, farmers, fisherfolk and coir workers continue to struggle for their livelihood. Beneath the rattling of the coir ratt, the rhythmic harvest songs and the splashing of oars, the grievances of the toiling class resonate.
Delayed procurement has pushed paddy farmers into a debt trap, while the migration of the coir industry to neighbouring states has left workers in despair. The delay in completing fishing harbour projects in Arthungal has left fisherfolk fuming.
Travelling from Kochi to Alappuzha, the construction of the Aroor–Thuravoor elevated highway has become a major nightmare for commuters. “The project has raised a barrier, dividing Aroor into two. Traffic congestion has been the order of the day. During the monsoon, the road turns into a marsh,” says Vyapari Vyavasayi Ekopana Samithi unit general secretary K K Balasubramaniam.
“Traders along the 13km stretch have suffered huge losses. About 110 shops have shut in the past four years. As many as 62 people died in accidents and several residents have developed respiratory problems.”
In contrast, a mood of jubilation prevails at Perumbalam, where a new bridge has ended decades of isolation. The 1,157m bridge, built at a cost of Rs 100 crore, has opened new opportunities for residents, most of whom are labourers.
“The island is witnessing a steady flow of tourists. The government has approved Perumbalam as a responsible tourism destination, which will provide new job opportunities,” says panchayat president C R Gireesh.
‘Aiswarya’, a jankar donated by former MP A M Ariff, now remains moored at the Vathikadu jetty, reminding residents of the days when shifting critical patients at night was a struggle. The bridge has also helped Aroor MLA Daleema Jojo counter allegations of being a non-performer.
“The bridge has brought much relief,” says Santha, a septuagenarian at a shrimp-peeling shed. “Now, workers no longer have to depend on boats to return home.”
In Cherthala, my next stop, coconut and paddy farmers complain of lack of support. Ironically, this is the constituency of Agriculture Minister P Prasad. “The rise in coconut prices has been a boon, but we are struggling to find tree-climbers. Wages have crossed Rs 1,000 a day. We have been forced to stop farming,” says Suresh, a farmer.
Vegetable farmers in Kanjikuzhy, however, have a different story. With support from the agriculture department and the panchayat, they have been able to supply pesticide-free vegetables.
“Educated youngsters have introduced modern technology and are earning a decent income. Customers are flocking to Kanjikuzhy farms. We have distributed five lakh vegetable seeds through Kudumbashree. Udayappan, who earns Rs 2.5 crore a year, is an example,” says panchayat president M Santhosh Kumar.
The mood turns grim in Arthunkal, where fishermen are frustrated with the long-delayed harbour project, which forces them to depend on Vypeen harbour in Kochi. The project, launched nearly 25 years ago, was revived only last year after a 100-day protest by the Swatantra Matsya Thozhilali Federation.
“We keep our boats at Vypeen harbour. Around 9pm, we travel there by van and return by noon, spending nearly Rs 7,000 a day,” says fisherman leader Raju Asrayam.
In contrast, fisherfolk at Chethi harbour are hopeful as work is progressing steadily. “The government has been supportive. It was [former finance minister] Thomas Isaac who took special interest in this project. We expect it to be completed within a year,” says fisherman Joseph.
In Alappuzha, meanwhile, fisherfolk are politically divided as both candidates — P P Chitharanjan (CPM) and A D Thomas (Congress) — belong to their community.
The city continues to face multiple issues, including polluted canals, the deteriorating Vembanad lake, and traffic congestion. The houseboat sector is also in crisis, with a sharp decline in tourist arrivals due to the West Asia conflict.
One common factor in all three constituencies is the BJP-led NDA’s growing influence, which has made the election unpredictable. The NDA has steadily increased its vote share in recent years, with a gradual shift of the Ezhava community from Red to Saffron. And this has clearly upset the traditional poll arithmetics in the region.