A four-decade walk with Krishna’s messages of love, liberation

The ISKCON 'padayatra' has been traversing across India for the past 42 years.

Two majestic bulls with rounded horns pulled a covered cart through an urban jungle of Thiruvananthapuram. For some, it was a nostalgic throwback to childhood memories. For others, it appeared like a UFO on the road.

Curious, we approached. And there was a fascinating story behind the cart. One that spans four decades.

It is the story of spiritual seekers who have been travelling across India on foot since 1984 — a journey they have never broken.

Govinda Das, who was a musician and DJ in the US, travels with the ISKCON team as part of the 'padayatra'.

It all started when a group of ISKCON monks decided to embark on a tour of India, beginning at Dwarka in Gujarat and covering the country via Badrinath, Puri and Rameshwaram before returning to the starting point.

“The idea arose from the guidance of ISKCON founder Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada. The motive of the padayatra was to spread the message of oneness and adherence to truth and positive activity as prescribed by Krishna in the Gita and such scriptures,” says Divyarupa Nitai Das, an ISKCON monk from Tamil Nadu.

Besides him is Acharya Das, who has been travelling with the padayatra for the past 16 years. “This is the 10th time we are coming to Thiruvananthapuram as part of the tour,” he says. As the team halts for a break near Poojappura, the Kangrej bulls graze in silent oblivion. A platter of hay and grass, along with water mixed with what appeared to be gruel, is kept nearby.

The 'padayatra' team during their stopover at Kanyakumari.

Isn’t it unfair to make the bulls walk long distances under the blazing sun?
“We don’t sit in the cart. We walk along. There is a shrine inside the cart. We do daily rituals to the deities kept inside,” says Divyarupa Nitai Das.

“The maximum distance we cover in a day is about 10km. When the weather is harsh, maybe just 3km. This is primarily not to tax the animals. We care for and worship these bulls.”

Elaborating on their routines, the monks say they halt at places where they can freshen up, cook and eat, and also explore the immediate surroundings. In the evenings, they sing songs of Krishna.

The tam cooks its own food as they rest after the day's walk.

“We distribute the books published by ISKCON,” says Acharya Das. “People in some places greet and treat us with a lot of love. There have been hostile reactions too. Like we brave the weather, we move through such treatments too. The idea is our goal — to spread Krishna’s message of emancipation from ego and human betterment.”

That’s the ideal that attracted Govinda Das — who was a musician and DJ in the US — to the Krishna Consciousness movement. He finds the padayatra as fascinating as it is difficult.

“It is difficult because we don’t know where we will get to sleep and what awaits us — love or scorn. We also have to brave the vagaries of the weather. It is very austere,” he says.

The team is ever on transit, and after Thiruvananthapuram, is now on its way back to the start point at Dwarka through Kochi, Mangaluru, and the Konkan coast.

“However, I love this experience… It’s part of my sadhana or spiritual practice. We get to travel through the land, feeling life’s pulse through shifting cultures and people, quite like an unfettered soul ever in transit.

Music comes naturally in such a situation, and we sing and dance with a lot of joy. This way, we get to spread love.”

Acharya Das smiles. “This journey of love and liberation will go on. None of those who began it are amidst us now. Still, the padayatra continues. Quite like life… no matter who comes or goes,” he says.

“Next, we will head to Kochi, then Kasaragod and Mangalore… finally, back to Dwarka. There, the journey will restart all over again.”