The exact origin of biriyani, a dish almost everyone can relate to as comforting and soulful, is debatable. But, historical records suggest the dish emerged during the Mughal period, around 16th century. The word ‘biriyani’ is believed to be derived from the Persian word ‘birian’, which means ‘fried before cooking’ or ‘roasted’. It is said the Mughal emperors, who were great advocates of the culinary arts, introduced biriyani to the Indian subcontinent. They brought the Persian style of preparation where meat was layered along with rice and fragrant spices to create a star dish, fit for the royalty.
Over time, biriyani as a dish evolved and was influenced by local tastes and ingredients of different regions in India. Each region put its own riff on the dish, resulting in a wide array of regional variations that are proudly celebrated today.
In India, almost every state has a unique version that they call their own, and biriyani, as a dish, epitomises the rich tapestry of Indian cuisine weaving together history, culture and tradition.
Each type of biriyani is influenced by various cultural and regional factors — from the cooking styles, occasions, colour, rice varieties, spices, utensils used, garnishes and accompaniments, every biriyani is deeply steeped in traditional and tells a story of historic lineage and culinary heritage.
One of the fascinating aspects of biriyani is its regional variations, each offering a unique interpretation of the dish. Whether it's the robust flavours of Chettinad biriyani, or the spice heavy Ambur / Arcot biriyani, the biriyani legacy tells a story of culinary craftsmanship passed down through generations.
In Tamil Nadu, biriyani is dear to every household and is a centre of attraction for special occasions or weddings and other celebrations. The preparation of biriyani in itself is a labour of love, bringing families and communities together in the shared experience of cooking and enjoying this wonderful dish. The people of Tamil Nadu can boast of a few variants that they would call their own, each having their own intricate balances, nuances and characteristic features that are unique.
The most popular among them is the Chettinad biriyani — a one pot dish — Dindigul biriyani — a short grain rice dish — Arcot / Ambur biriyani, Pallipalayam biriyani and the Rawther biriyani.
ARCOT OR AMBUR CHICKEN BIRIYANI WITH DALCHA
This biriyani originated from a princely town once ruled by the Nawabs of Arcot, combining the intricacies of North Indian cooking techniques with regional flavours. Fragrant basmati rice or seeraga samba rice and chicken is par cooked, layered alternatively and slow cooked over dum. Groundnut oil, popular in the region, is used in which a paste of whole spices is cooked along with yogurt, tomato and meat resulting in a flavour packed, vibrant biriyani.
This biriyani was interestingly developed thanks to one of the cooks who worked in the kitchens of the Nawab of Arcot, named Hussain Baig. Paired with the all-time favourite dalcha, which is a tangy brinjal curry, this combination is truly a culinary match made in heaven!
PALLIPALAYAM MUTTON BIRIYANI
The aromatic and well known dish has its roots in a municipality named Pallipaliyum, deep in the heart of Tamil Nadu, known for an extensive use of indigenous ingredients. A fragrant variety of rice called seeraga samba, known for its distinct aroma and health benefits, coupled with fresh coconut milk makes this biriyani unique.
A homemade blend of whole spices such as chilli, cumin, curry leaves, coconut and garlic, give the dish a lingering taste that’s quite unforgettable on all counts. This biriyani is slow cooked over dum, topped with coriander and mint. The result is this native succulent, aromatic and biriyani with flavours of Tamil Nadu having its own characteristics.
RAWTHER BIRIYANI
The term ‘Rawther’ is rooted in a sub-division of the Tamil-speaking Muslim community. Rawther biriyani, has its origin in Coimbatore, being heavy on spices and generally prepared with mutton. Jeerakasal – a short-grained variety of rice is used in the preparation and this succulent biriyani tends to be red in colour due to the ample use of tomatoes and Kashmiri red chilli powder.
DINDIGUL BIRIYANI
Named after the city - Dindigul in Tamil Nadu, this Biriyani is known for its use of aromatic and fragrant seeraga samba rice. The meat, usually mutton, is cooked with a unique combination of spices, including dried red chillies and curry leaves, giving it a distinctive spicy flavour.
CHETTINAD BIRIYANI
A culinary gem that hails from the Chettinad region of Tamil Nadu. Chettinad Biriyani is another variety, known for its usage of meticulously hand ground aromatic spices such as fennel seeds, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, star anise, and black peppercorns, among others. The spices are toasted to release their essential oils, imparting a depth of flavour and complexity to the dish. The biriyani also uses seeraga samba rice, renowned for its aromatic fragrance and ability to absorb the star flavours of the dish. The rice is parboiled and then layered with marinated meat, usually chicken or mutton, along with the fragrant Chettinad masala mix. The cooking process involves the ‘dum’ method, where the biriyani is slow-cooked in a sealed pot, allowing the flavours to meld together and infuse into every grain of rice. Chettinad Biriyani is often garnished with fried onions, cashews, and fresh herbs, adding layers of texture and aroma to the dish. It is typically served with accompaniments such as raita, pickle and boiled eggs, owing to the rich heritage and lifestyle of the Chettiar community.
Biriyani, is now a globally acclaimed dish, with a day to celebrate and honour World Biriyani Day on April 10! Chefs and food enthusiasts are constantly innovating and enhancing the dish with culinary twists to create versions of Biriyani for every kind of palate. From vegetarian and vegan options to fusion twists incorporating global flavours, the possibilities for Biriyani today is endless. Jackfruit is one such innovation that has made a mark among all vegetarian biriyanis today where tender jackfruit pieces are used as a flavourful and meaty alternative.Its counterparts – mushroom, paneer, soya etc capitalise on the unique texture and taste of ripe jackfruit, which, when cooked with aromatic spices and layered with fragrant basmati rice, creates a mouth-watering dish that is both satisfying and nutritious.
The writer is director, food production at The Park, Chennai
ASHUTOSH NERLEKAR