NAGALAND : N Nagaland’s Phek district, which borders Myanmar and is home to the Chakhesang Nagas, a small group of women came together way back in 1976 with a quiet dream—to transform the lives of women in the community through weaving and preserve traditional attire in the process.
The idea was quickly brought to life through the establishment of the Chakhesang Women Welfare Society (CWWS). All that the women had were their traditional looms and a shared belief that they could bring about change through weaving. Fifty years on, their journey has shaped the destiny of thousands of women. Chakhesang is one of Nagaland’s 17 recognised tribes. Every Chakhesang woman is a member of this women-led organisation, whether she is living in Phek, elsewhere in Nagaland, or outside the state or India.
Nezelu Nyekha, CWWS executive director, says weaving has been an integral part of the organisation since its inception. Over time, value was added through other small-scale entrepreneurial activities, helping cover a large number of women.
“Our pioneers told women to learn to weave so they could earn a livelihood. That’s how the journey began with a small group of women. Today, some 60,000 Chakhesang women are associated with the initiative, directly or indirectly,” Nezelu says.
Even as the weaving movement continued, Chakhesang elders noticed in the early 1990s that community youth were slowly losing interest in weaving. To address this, a book titled Chakhesang Attire—a vibrant collection celebrating traditional attire—was published in 1995. It helped curb the declining interest among the youth.
The CWWS has remained focused on women’s welfare, training them in weaving and other entrepreneurial activities. As more women joined and production increased, the organisation established the Chakhesang Women Multipurpose Cooperative Society to handle the business aspect.
The weavers craft Chakhesang shawls as well as contemporary items such as aprons, curtains, and bags. Women in almost every household in the district are involved in weaving, while some specialise in food-based confectionery and food processing.
“Every Chakhesang shawl carries its own significance, with each pattern, motif, and colour holding a unique meaning. Every shawl has a story behind it. Sometimes, inspiration is drawn from animals as well as plants,” Nezelu says.
“Those who weave premium shawls earn Rs 30,000 to Rs 40,000 a month. Other weavers earn about Rs 15,000. A shawl normally costs Rs 2,500 to Rs 3,000, but if it is specially made, the cost doubles. It will have a logo and all standard specifications,” Nezelu says.
Most women are also engaged in farming. Part-time weavers and other entrepreneurs earn about Rs 15,000 a month. “Many of them have been weaving for more than 20 years, looking after their families,” she says.
Explaining the business model, she says the CWWS takes orders, linking weavers to markets, with most of the profit going to them. Traditional attire is sold mainly in local markets, while the organisation also sets up stalls at expos and exhibitions outside Nagaland to reach a wider audience.
“We have natural fibres, including cotton and stinging nettle. Stinging nettle is naturally available, while cotton is grown by the community. With the coming of synthetic fibres, things have changed, but stinging nettle remains very popular,” Nezelu says.
The CWWS has a training centre in Pfutsero, where women receive training not only in weaving but also in tailoring, enabling them to produce contemporary products. The organisation has also partnered with several women’s self-help groups (SHGs) specialising in weaving. After over four decades of sustained effort, the community achieved a major milestone in 2017 when the Chakhesang shawl earned Geographical Indication (GI) certification. “Our mission is to strengthen the community through a balanced approach. Our vision is to build a society where no one faces social or economic exclusion,” Nezelu says.
Pritpal Kaur, Superintendent of Police of Phek, says, “The CWWS is not only empowering women but also preserving traditional knowledge of weaving, seed banking, cultivation, and forestry, thereby contributing to biodiversity.”