It stands with a slight tilt, barely holding itself together as time threatens to pull it down. The nearly 300-year-old wall is a continuation of the stone-and-granite boundary that forms part of the majestic Fort frontier in Thiruvananthapuram.
A red board put up by the Archaeology Department on the wall explains its current condition: “The wall is in danger due to vehicles moving very close to the structure.”
The wall is strategically located along the stretch leading to Eenchakkal and onward to either Kovalam or the airport. It also surrounds the Central Archives and the Palm-leaf Manuscripts Museum.
“Once this falls, the entire structure could be affected,” warns Sajeev S J, president of the Environmental Protection and Research Council.
Constructed in the 18th century, the fort wall is an architectural marvel built in traditional granite masonry. The structure once protected the seats of administrative power as well as the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple.
Today, however, the heritage monument is deteriorating. Earlier, TNIE had reported on Simha Kotta on the southern side of the Fort area, which stood surrounded by waste and encroachments. Similar scenes can now be seen across the Fort wall.
“The wall adjoining the Central Archives and leading to the West Fort is thick with encroachments. Areas without encroachments are piled with half-burnt waste, and the walls are stained with soot. The state of the walls cries out for upkeep,” says S Uma Maheshwari, a Travancore history researcher.
The stretch near the Central Archives leading to the Punnupuram area and connecting to the West Fort corridor is particularly vulnerable because of a sharp turn, causing vehicles to frequently brush against the wall.
“Three months ago, a vehicle rammed the wall and displaced one of the interlocking stones,” says history enthusiast and writer Mohan Nair.
“We formed a group called ‘Padmanabhapuri’ and submitted a petition to the archaeology department. The wall remains fragile.”
He adds that most sections of the Fort wall are in a similar condition. “We highlighted the issues at Simha Kotta and Thekke Kotta last year, and some restoration work was carried out there. But what is needed is a committed conservation drive,” says Mohan.
Just yards away from the structure lies the historic ‘Palliyadakkamukku’, where the mortal remains of Travancore kings up to Swati Thirunal are interred. Today, however, the site is barely visible amid rampant encroachments.
According to archaeology department officials, the East Fort area received heritage status in 1985. Conserving it, however, remains a challenge.
“The heavy traffic and encroachments make conservation difficult. Still, restoration work has begun,” says Archaeology Director E Dinesan.
“The Fort wall on the Attakulangara side has been restored, and work on the gated pathway near the Central Archives stretch has been completed. It was during this work that we learned about the displaced stone.”
He says repairs to the damaged section will begin soon.
“Traffic control in the area is essential for effective restoration,” Dinesan says, adding that the department has proposed declaring the Fort wall surroundings a heritage zone.
“We are also preparing to begin the larger East Fort restoration project.”