The serene silence is not quite silent. It lilts with the shrill rasp of cicadas, the sudden rush of wind through the canopy, and the occasional birdsong echoing through the woods.
Streams of sunlight slip through the foliage, shifting with every gust. A little beyond the large arch marking the way to Vazhvanthol waterfalls, a brook appears on the right.
It meanders its way over rocks and roots, running alongside the trail as the path begins to climb. Its gurgle grows clearer with every step, drawing us deeper into the forest.
Vazhvanthol lies within the Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary, about 46km from Thiruvananthapuram, on the route to Bonacaud.
Once known mostly through trekkers’ word of mouth, the waterfalls are now drawing more visitors, thanks in part to KSRTC’s budget tourism trips and the Priyadarshini service.
At the Kaanithadam forest checkpost, entry passes cost `1,000 for a group of up to five people. A little farther in is a parking area, where a guide joins visitors for the trek, pointing out the forest’s less obvious details and the stories held within it.
“Usually, we take one group a day. Even if we take two groups, our daily wage remains the same — `600,” says Anjali, our guide.
For years, visitors were mostly trekkers and groups of tech professionals. People from Tamil Nadu also began arriving after seeing the falls online, often adding Vazhvanthol to a Thiruvananthapuram sightseeing itinerary.
The pattern has changed recently. “More people have been visiting nowadays, especially over weekends, probably because of social media reels and new bus services,” Anjali says.
The 2.5km trail begins through eucalyptus plantations, easy enough at first, before the incline changes the pace, leaving you panting your way uphill. Tall trees cast a broad shade over the route as we enter the forest.
Elephant trails cross the path, leading towards the stream where the animals come to drink water. At one point, the strong smell of fresh dung hangs in the air, a reminder that the forest is home to creatures beyond our sight.
Anjali recalls seeing signs of bears, tigers and leopards too. There are caves along the trail, including an eye-shaped formation known as ‘Kannadi Guha’.
After roughly 2km, the first waterfall appears. Groups stop beside the water to rest before continuing for another half-kilometre trek towards Vazhvanthol.
Along the way, women-only groups, mixed ones and schoolchildren move at different paces towards the same destination.
For safety reasons, entry to the upper zone is permitted only until 1pm, and visitors are allowed about an hour and a half here.
“As daylight fades, the forest becomes more difficult to navigate, making the return journey something that cannot be treated casually,” says Anjali.
After the trek, Vazhvanthol falls open up in seven tiers, revealing itself in stages — the way the water catches the light, the force with which it comes down, the pools it gathers in and the winding course it takes through the rocks.
The rocks around the falls can be slippery, with potholes and uneven stretches making it important to watch your footing, especially when stepping into the water.
Ropes have been secured along some sections, while guides point out safer spots for a dip. The rocks above the falls are particularly risky, Anjali cautions, with several accidents reported there.
It is hard to keep off the water. A cool dip in the stream on the way back offers a welcome pause after the climb, washing away some of the heat and fatigue.
For a while, the city feels a world away. There is only the cool, clean river, the forest and a calm mind briefly cleared of its clutter.
A light shower catches us on the return, turning the road through Vithura into a wash of mist and rain, with the hills fading and reappearing through the grey.
I am reminded of John Muir’s lines: “As long as I live, I’ll hear waterfalls and birds and winds sing. I’ll interpret the rocks, learn the language of flood, storm, and the avalanche. I’ll acquaint myself with the glaciers and wild gardens, and get as near the heart of the world as I can.”
That is what a journey to Vazhvanthol leaves you with — the feeling of having moved, for a few hours, a little closer to the heart of the world.
How to get there
Vazhvanthol is about 46km from Thiruvananthapuram. Take the Nedumangad–Chullimanoor–Vithura route towards Bonacaud. At the Kaanithadam forest checkpost, get the entry pass before beginning the 2.5-km trek to the falls. KSRTC buses to Bonacaud also operate on this route. The KSRTC Budget Tourism Cell also customises itineraries for private chartered groups, families and organisations.
For details, contact the Trivandrum Budget Tourism Cell Central Helpline: 7907273399 / 9961228777.
Nearby attractions
Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary
Bonacaud
Ponmudi
Kallar–Meenmutty
What to carry
Drinking water and snacks
Good-grip trekking shoes
Light rain jacket or umbrella
Insect repellent
Food stops
Carry a packed meal for the trek, as there are no shops along the forest route. For food before or after the trek, options are available near the IISER campus and Vithura junction.
Entry & timing
Entry fee: 1,000 for a group of up to five
Last entry: 1 pm
Time at the falls: About 1.5 hours