BENGALURU: Jonali Saikia Khasnabish had decided to revive traditional north-eastern sarees with a special focus on Assamese handlooms, her intent was also to create a sustainable chain that will support weavers economically. Jonali knew the initiative had to be approached not with a business sense but from the heart. No wonder, she chose the name Heeya Crafts for her Bengaluru-based retail undertaking; the name Heeya means ‘heart’ in Assamese.
“We’re doing things from the heart. The intentions are clear. It is handmade and sustainable,” says Jonali and adds that all her products are made by people long marginalised in the artisan sector. “Certain sectors of artisans are not getting due recognition. They don’t have access to proper technologies or training or the market to get their crafts out, which has been going on for many generations. The commercial products are taking over the market,” she says.
Elaborating on her products, Jonali says that she has been able to create an entirely new range of cotton sarees from Assam, based on authentic Assamese patterns and motifs. “These are not woven in any factory but in homes under the supervision of village textile experts and village coordinators. We have named these sarees based on the type of weave or the area they are woven in. We have also documented the motifs, patterns and yarns used. We also make materials (yardages), Mekhela chadors (traditional Assamese dress), accessories like stoles, shawls and furnishing as well,” she explains.
Heeya approaches local NGOs and cooperative societies to help them to ease the access in providing supervision. “With local help, it is easier to engage the communities. They have a large scale supervision.”
Jonali mentions that there is no exclusive market for north eastern sarees in the country and as a community, members learn to market locally.
“We support them by taking the product outside,” she says. Heeya Crafts rewards the women if they are exceptionally good in their work. “Every saree has a different range and the pay is according to it.
Initially the pay grade was around Rs. 1000 but it has steadily increased over the years to around Rs. 5000 now. We are giving them upgraded looms,” she mentions.
According to her, the handloom market in India leaves very little choice for minor or small scale artisans to survive. “Handloom industry needs intervention. There is no connection made with the market there,” she asserts.
The entrepreneur says that awareness about the products has been growing, especially in Bengaluru. “Bengalureans have an evolved mindset. They like the product for the cost and the craft associated with it.”
Heeya Crafts acquires its fame from social media and through word of mouth. Their major concentration presently, is on Assam, but Jonali says she is hopeful to spread to the other states as well.
They have wide variety of collections available on their Facebook page. Each collection is unique in nature and carries a story to support the art.