CHENNAI: Purvi Doshi is part of the clan of designers that has been working on the revival of traditional arts and crafts of India by using extensive mirror work and zari in a contemporary manner. Pioneering a brand that aims to carve a sustainable eco-friendly style, she uses natural colours derived from leaves, fruits, flowers, barks, herbs and vegetables.
“Chemical colours are responsible for over 70% of the water pollution globally. But using natural dyes as a viable alternative is also a struggle as there is a limited range of colours,” she informs. So how does she overcome this? “Eight to 10 colours are all I need!” she laughs. “There are so many things we can do with this. Limitations push me to be more creative.”
Purvi does extensive research before starting a new collection — Instead of trends, she focuses on the arts and crafts that are on the verge of extinction. “We study about how they can be incorporated in our collection. For example, we have used the kutch mirror embroidery in different shapes and patterns, and worked on reviving that technique,” she smiles.
Nandita Das even wore it at the Cannes red carpet once!
Other celebrities like Tapsee Pannu, Nandita Das, Sonam Kapoor, Vidya Balan and more have worn and loved her label. So how important are celebrity clients for the self-taught designer? “They are important, as I work on sustainable fashion and celebrities are the best medium to spread my ideas to the masses,” she avers. “India is all about celebrities, you become a household name instantly and go viral when a celeb wears your outfit.”
The designer sees a very strong connection between art and fashion. “Fashion is the medium through which you express art to people, but an interest in it is considered airheaded,” she opines. “When an art lover buys art, it’s called ‘collecting’, but when a fashion enthusiast buys clothing, it’s called ‘shopping!’ she laughs.
Purvi, based out of Ahmedabad, reminisces her journey as a designer who found it hard initially to grab the attention of a large audience with greater purchasing power and interest in sustainable style. “Sure, it was difficult...but if the mountains cannot come to you, you go to the mountains. We started doing exhibitions in different cities and countries. Our designs spoke for themselves,”
she smiles.
This year, she is also developing a collection inspired by bead work, which will be showcased at the Bangalore Fashion Week. “Beads are part of a tradition and not mainstream fashion. Jewellery and accessories are usually created out of it, but I’m thinking about making use of them differently,” she avers.
Her latest collection, Hues in the Sun, embodies the sun’s energy and brings it out through colours. “The soulful vintage inflorescences create a pleasing and balanced composition through the back-scattering mirrors,” she says. Her dream project is to be part of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, to spread sustainability along with being a part of the Make in India movement.
(The writer is a columnist with TNIE)