CHENNAI : Aval (flattened rice), pori (puffed rice) and kadalai (groundnuts) — are the specialties of VN Shanmuga Thevar Pattani Shop, which is run by 55-year-old third-generation businessman VS Thirunavukkarasu. The shop is located in Aminjikarai since 1949. The whole community from Vadaseri village of Thanjavur district came together and settled in the city years ago, and now the pattani business has spread across T Nagar, Purasawalkam, Mylapore, Thiruvallikeni, and Vannarapettai. “Everybody here is our family member. Although the groundnut business has been sinking for the past 10 years, the awareness regarding the healthy nut has been increasing,” explains the proprietor Thirunavukkarasu, who has been in the business for 25 years. He says that his father, VN Shanmuga Thevar, and grandfather, VN Narayanasamy Thevar were also dependent on the business for a living.
Despite studying mechanics in PUC, Thirunavukkarasu decided to take up his family business. The tiny shop hasn’t gone through much renovation in 69 years, it still retains its vintage charm. While they’ve adapted to the use of machines, the old chatti (frying vessel) and aruva (sickle) still hold a place inside the shop.
“Initially, we used to roast and stack it in the red bamboo baskets that you see in front of the shop. Once the customers arrive, the freshly roasted nuts are wrapped in a paper and sold. People who are moving out of town, purchase it in bulk quantities. However, a quarter or half a kg has become a fixed choice now. And everybody wants it packed in a polythene packet,” shares Thirunavukkarasu. While pattani and peas are sourced from Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh, aval, pori and groundnuts are from Tamil Nadu.
Tamil Nadu is one of the leading cultivators of groundnuts and the peak season for harvesting them are June, July, and August. The business peaks during Vinayagar Chaturthi and Ayudha pooja. Aval, pori and kadalai are customers’ favourites for these traditional festivals. Recently, people have also started buying them for making sakthu maavu (multi-grain flour). “Groundnut is good for cholesterol. Aval and pori are rich in protein and vitamins. Earlier, this used to be a poor man’s snack. One packet will suffice your appetite and it is truly worth the cost,” he says.
The shop also exports pattani or fried gram to Ceylon. They have a loyal customer base abroad as well. “Many government officials from my grandfather’s era continue to purchase from us. My ancestors provided the best quality for the money and I take pride in following the same principle. We leave the slippers outside the shop because we also worship the food we prepare. I am a little worried about the existence of this business after me,” says Thirunavukkarasu. (Address: New No. 614, Poonamallee High Road, Aminjikarai) For details call: 044 26263521
Products available at the shop
The shop sells fried grams, aval, pori, nattu chakkarai (palm sugar), fried peas, ground nuts, samba aval and channa. Pattani is usually prepared after sauteing it with turmeric and salt in a frying vessel. The turmeric used is usually from Erode. Similarly, groundnuts are soaked in salt water, dried for the whole day, and then sauteed using sea mud.