CHENNAI:Thirugai (rolling stone grinder), seva nazhi (idiyappam maker), ammi and attukal (stone grinders). These are names of age-old equipment used in our ancestral kitchens. Remember those days when your 'paati' used 'ural' and 'ulakkai' to crush and grind grains? Now they've all taken modern avatars in the form of mixers and grinders. In an effort to bring back memories from her paati's kitchen, Nalina Kannan, owner of Thaligai restaurant, introduced a hands-on experience session with these tools to celebrate the restaurant's third anniversary. "These collections date back to three generations. People should know how difficult cooking was back in those days. It was time-consuming and hard using these equipment. Watching our mothers make every meal with difficulty made us realise the value of food and we never wasted any," shares Nalina, recollecting her childhood days.
Although the tools served the same purpose as that of those now, they were designed based on the type of grain, size, usage and the consistency required. While 'ammi' and 'attukal' might be used for smaller quantities and grinding spices for curries, a 'thirugai' is used for making flour out of the grains like ragi, corn, millets, wheat and rice. Even the waste created during the grinding process would be used in broth or other dishes made. "Along with the food, you also get to taste the rustic flavours of the tools from which they were made. Spices and flour can be freshly ground in small quantities as and when needed due to availability of differently sized tools," says Nalina.
The highlights from the collection included a 40-year-old coffee 'kottai' grinder and filter. Roasted coffee beans are taken in minimal amount and ground according to the requirement. There is a handle to roll, and as you roll the handle, the beans get crushed in the blender and the fresh aromatic powder comes out. Rukmani cooker was another legendary antique piece. Made of brass, this comes with three-tier tiffin carrier vessels. Used mostly by the affluent, it was used during long journeys and picnics.
Take a walk around and you will find an old tea boiler, a filter coffee 'dabara' set, 'anna koodai' used for serving huge amount of rice during special occasions, 'kumuti addupu' (charcoal stove), 'thengai thuruvi' (coconut grinder), 'aruvamanai' (vegetable scraper) and 'anjarai petti' (five spice box). Mostly made of metals like copper, brass and bronze, each vessel weighs differently and retains a unique heating capacity. "We never complained of any body ache. Both hands were used to share the work load. This helped in improving our hand-eye coordination, concentration and muscle power. It hurt initially but we learnt through pain and practice. This was our way of keeping fit without paying money for gym," says Jaya, one of the old grandmothers demonstrating the usage of every tool.
Tips to go the old-fashioned way
1) Mix pepper with oil before grinding it in 'thirugai' to get a fine powder.
2) Pirandi juice (a type of creeper) was used to knead dough for appalam. This acts as a natural anti-pesticide. And appalam was made without using oil in charcoal stoves.